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Article Excerpt
JUNE 2003
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover. MC: MasterCard. V: Visa. Ct: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax, and tip. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
Aquarelle 606 Rio Grande (512-479-8117). On a downtown side street sits this gem of a French restaurant, politely beckoning with tiny white lights and a curry-yellow facade. The tuna with baby artichokes, herbes de Provence, and lemon-infused olive oil was a vibrant marriage of flavors. As for the succulent sauteed lobster with a sprightly tomato confit and sweet-onion coulis--enough said. Beer & wine. Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9:15, Fri & Sat 6-10:15. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive to very expensive (prix fixe four-course $50, six-course upon request $75). Cr. (W+)
Bistro 88 2712 Bee Caves Rd (512-328-8888). Bistro 88 is warm and inviting, its atmosphere stylishly in tune with the Euro-Asian cuisine. We started with on-the-house wonton shooters, which were plump enough to require more than one shot. Tempura-battered crab-stuffed prawns completed an evening of pure contentment. Bar. Lunch Sun 11:30-2, Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Cafe Bleu 8714 Lime Creek Rd; head west on FM 2222 (it will turn into Bullock Hollow), take a left on FM 2769 (Volente Beach Rd) and continue for 4 miles, then take a right on Lime Creek Rd and go 2.2 miles until you reach the marina (512-401-2538). We're so happy that this spot--not your typical lakeside dive but a cafe with European charm--has reopened, with its white awning and teak tables. Our steamed mussels came in a white-wine broth so delicious we sopped it up with bread. Our spinach salad--with mushrooms, egg, bacon, mandarin orange, and pecan-crusted chicken--was divine. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun brunch 11-1. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Crimson 407 Colorado (512-473-2700). Red-steel supports overhead and novel artwork on the walls have updated Gilligan's old space. On the menu, are "naughty" and "nice" sections (high-cal and lesser-cal). Appropriately naughty, fried wontons came filled with minced shrimp and tasso, while a light baby spinach salad was topped by fresh ahi tuna, lightly crusted with pistachios and seared--nice. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Wed 5-11, Thur-Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Curra's 614 E. Oltorf (512-444-0012). This colorful South Austin joint is not only the Mother of All Vex, as the sign boisterously declares, but also the home of a funky vibe, wisecracking servers, liberal payment options (euros? pesos?--no problema), and indeed, authentic Mexican food. We devoured tangy octopus ceviche, homemade corn tortillas oozing with queso flameado, and spicy pollo con mole. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Driskill Grill Driskill Hotel, 604 Brazos (512-474-5911). Have dinner with David Bull, just named one of Food & Wine magazine's top ten young chefs. The lad's presentations are dazzling, as are the Grill's prices. For $32, enjoy duck and more duck: rosy, tender breast; spectacular seared foie gras; and humdrum shredded confit perked up by onion marmalade. Voracious for veal? An outlay of $34 brings a minimalist cordon bleu: beautifully roasted veal tenderloin with a smidge of Gruyere-rich mornay sauce. Finish your quiet, civilized visit with lush, chiffonlike citrus cake under a jaunty lemon curd cap. Bar. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Reservations recommended. Moderate to very expensive. Cr. (W+) Via 7th St entrance.
Eastside Cafe 2113 Manor Rd (512-476-5858). This quiet little house's revamped garden room (once one of our favorite outdoor patios) is a pleasant setting for weekend brunching on blueberry blintzes, Belgian waffles, and perfectly executed eggs Benedict (the smoked-salmon version is a decadent treat). Lunches and dinners offer pastas, soups, and salads that often incorporate produce from Eastside's organic garden. Beer & wine. Open Sun 10-10, Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 10-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
* Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Twinkling lights greet you at this limestone ranch house, while the blackened smokehouse assures you that meaty treats await. An entree of venison backstrap wrapped around smoked lobster lacked the richness we expected, but a guava-sour cherry sauce perked it up nicely. We'd dine here often if more affordable wines by the bottle were offered. Bar. Dinner Sun-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+)
Jean Luc's Bistro 705 Colorado (512-494-0033). With a fresh face-lift, Jean Luc's is an appealing, clean-lined showcase for chef-owner Shawn Cirkiel's New American menu. On our visit the kitchen was hitting homers, Hints of wild sage and bits of prosciutto bolstered a creamy butternut squash soup, while a bravura entree of duck confit on delicious brown lentils had a beautifully edgy citrus sauce. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Jeffrey's is still the high priest of fine dining in Austin, bestowing upon the faithful inventive Mediterranean and Asian-influenced cuisine in a simple, sophisticated setting. Our favorites: an exhilarating appetizer of impossibly sweet serrano prawns and a meltingly tender veal ossobuco teamed with caramelized-onion polenta and sun-dried-tomato horseradish. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $55 & $75). Cr. (W) With assistance.
Kenichi 419 Colorado (512-320-8883). Beautiful people eating beautiful food amid beautiful environs--yeah, our head turned during a recent visit to this warehouse district hot spot. Tempura-battered Dynamite Shrimp made a kapow! of a starter. The evening's special (macadamia-crusted butterfish drizzled with a coconut-wasabi vinaigrette) also satisfied, but it was dessert--tempura-fried ice cream--that set our spoons to dueling. Bar. Dinner Sun-Wed 5:30-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11. Expensive to very expensive. Cr. (W+)
Las Palomas 3201 Bee Caves Rd (512-327-9889). From a dozen or so seafood entrees, our gracious server guided us to the camaron al chipotle, butterflied shrimp in a spicy sauce. We were also fond of the banderillas, three delicious, sour-creamy chicken flautas (which we eventually found after excavating a mound of lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and jalapenos). Terra-cotta hues warm the family-friendly setting. Bar. Lunch Tue-Sat 11-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate, Cr. (W+)
Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Chef Michael Hall's New American menu is bringing changes to this neighborhood cottage. A terrific starter of truffled Peruvian blue potatoes strutted its stuff alongside a leek confit and irresistibly cute boiled quail eggs. If only the medium-rare duck entree (with poached figs and great gnocchi) had been more tender, it would have been perfect. Beer & wine. Dinner Sun 5:30-11, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Ct. (W+)
Z'Tejas 9400 Arboretum Blvd (512-346-3506). With its wood-and-limestone architecture and soaring ceilings, this northern outpost of the beloved Austin-born chain evokes a Hill Country lodge. We enjoyed selections that wander from West Coast to Gulf Coast. The pan-fried snapper, in particular, topped with crabmeat, salsa fresca, and cilantro cream sauce was a crunchy, tangy delight. Bar. Open Sun 10-10, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 10-11. Call for other location. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Mansion at Judges' Hill 1900 Rio Grande (512-4951800). Chef John Maxwell, formerly of Zoot, heads the kitchen at this posh new urban inn in the historic Goodall Wooten house. We ordered from the "modern" side of the menu, starting with velvety seared Hudson Valley foie gras with plum sauce. A muted curry emulsion and a warm slaw of savoy cabbage and green apple elevated seared ahi tuna from ordinary to exceptional. The only miss was sticky homemade linguine, but the dish's poached Maine lobster was fine. Presentations are impeccable. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Roaring Fork InterContinental Stephen F. Austin Hotel, 701 Congress Ave (512-583-0000). Chef-owner Robert McGrath's new upscale Austin outpost of his Arizona original bills itself as an American bistro and saloon, and the rock 'em-sock 'em flavors fit the Western theme. A fondue pot, a favorite from the sixties, made a delicious comeback served with three tender little lamb chops and pecan-bread croutons to dip in the savory melted cheese. Whiskey-glazed beef tenderloin came out rather dry, but rare albacore tuna was treated with finesse. The best thing on the menu may be the stunningly rich green-chile macaroni and cheese. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun 5-91 Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Zin American Bistro and Bar 1601 W. 38th (512-377-5252). The devil's in the details, but this newcomer has its bases covered. Executive chef Fred Geesin (formerly of Gilligan's) presides over an operation that's already polished, from the design--shiny concrete floor, lavender walls--to the exemplary service. It's a fitting milieu for New American fare inspired by the California wine country; the slow-roasted pork loin in a port-cherry sauce was tender perfection, while a burgundy-poached pear with chevre cream made for an intoxicating finish. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2:30. Dinner Tue-Thur 4:30-10, Fri & Sat 4:30-11. Sun brunch 10:30-2:30. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
[UPDATE] Carlo's 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). At this serene Greek and Italian restaurant, we started off with a sampler featuring Greek meat bails, perfectly seasoned dolmades; fried calamari, zucchini, and mozzarella; and carciofini ripieni (deep-fried artichokes served with a siciliano tomato sauce). We hardly had room for a pizza with white sauce, chicken, and artichoke hearts. The atmosphere is worth the trip--from the exposed brick to the beautiful piano center room, a popular dinner-date destination. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Elena's 6290 Phelan (409-861-2800) and 1865 College (409-832-1203), Beaumont. We found the Phelan location of this Mexican restaurant a relaxing spot for lunch. The cheesy goodness of the casserole-like queso fundido con pollo was worth every fat-laden calorie. Our companion's pechuga con queso, a grilled chicken breast topped with queso and served with rice and beans, was one of the $4.95 lunch specials. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 8 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat 8-10. Call for hours at other location. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Green Beanery Cafe 2121 McFaddin, Beaumont (409-833-5913). Chef-owner Jim Morrison is keeping culinary excellence alive in Beaumont at this romantic converted house. From the evening's menu, we were intrigued by an appetizer description of artichoke hearts stuffed with Texas goat cheese in sherry creme brulee, but saved ourselves for entrees of grilled swordfish with pineapple-red pepper-ginger relish (and a side of surprisingly light mango and shrimp risotto) and a bone-in chicken breast sauteed with mushrooms, roasted garlic, and a Chardonnay demi-glace over angel-hair pasta. We rewarded our earlier restraint by indulging in a white-chocolate Grand Marnier mousse. Beer & wine. Reservations recommended. Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2, Sat 11:30-1:30. Dinner Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
Hoffbrau Steaks 2310 N 11th, Beaumont (409-892-6911). The outdoor beer garden is the real draw of this otherwise typical Texas steakhouse (each of the 26 locations is individually owned). We started with the Brau Sampler, a platter of boudin balls, thinly sliced fried potatoes, fried mushrooms, and fried cheese. We got what we paid for with the $16.95 Texas T-bone, a generous 16-ounce cut of tender meat. Bar. Open Sun 11-9, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+)
Quality Cafe 730 Liberty, Beaumont (409-835-9652). This cafe has been serving hearty home cooking in the same downtown location since 1930. You can't beat the endearingly retro plate-lunch specials (served with two vegetables, potato salad, and dessert). On our visit the choices were hamburger steak, fried chicken, and chicken-fried steak. We went with the last, plus fresh mustard greens, cornbread dressing, and peach cobbler--wow! Open Mon-Fri 6-3. Closed Sat & Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Rao's Bakery and Coffee Cafe 2596 Calder Ave and 4440 Dowlen Rd, Beaumont (409-832-4342). Established in 1941, Rao's offers more than sandwiches and salads. The outdoor patio at the Calder location is a perfect spot to relax with a coffee drink and baked delights such as glazed sugar cookies or eclairs oozing with cream filling and smothered in chocolate. Or go the more healthy route with a mango smoothie. This southeast Texas bakery also makes an impressively authentic cannoli. Open Mon-Thur 6-6, Fri 6-8, Sat 7-3. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. AE, MCI V. (W+)
Willy Ray's 145 I-10N, Beaumont (409-832-7770). Our favorite items here are the Saint Louis pork spareribs (large, lean, and meaty), the carrot souffle, and the garlic potatoes. Numerous to-go meals are on display in a freezer, ready to take home and heat up. The decor is atypical for a barbecue place: dark, polished woods, and floral prints. Beer & wine. Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Bayou Grill 3741 S. Alameda (361-854-8626). We like the tiny skillet of sweet cornbread that begins each meal, but in our opinion, most everything else needs work. Our fried shrimp stuffed with seasoned bread crumbs were not memorable, and our cajun potatoes proved bland. At least the creamy coarse-cut coleslaw stood out. Decor is fauxswamp. Beer & wine. Open Sun 11-2 (light fare only), Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10, Moderate. Cr. (W)
[UPDATE] Jezebelles Art Center of Corpus Christi, 100 Shoreline Blvd (361-887-7403). If only the food were as exciting as the art that adorns the walls of this newly renovated building. Our sliced beef sandwich with sauteed onions and mushrooms, Monterey jack cheese, and jalapenos was bland, and the toasted French bread slightly burnt. A companion fared better with a bowl of tortilla soup--a tasty tomato-based broth with chunks of chicken, onion, and tomato topped with melted cheddar. The large windows provided an amazing view of the bay, Beer & wine, Open Sun & Tue 11-3, Wed-Sat 11-9. Sun brunch 11-2. Closed Mon. Moderate, AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
[UPDATE] Lin's China Bistro 4201 S. Padre Island Dr (361-857-6060). Although the decor--lacquered tables with art inlays and statues of warhorses--elevate this new Chinese restaurant a notch above its competitors, some of the fare is less lofty. An order of chicken in lettuce wraps arrived...
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