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Article Excerpt
When Spanish conquistadores entered Texas in search of the mythical Seven Cities of Gold, they veered away from the center of the state and headed toward New Mexico. If only those explorers had realized what a trove of treasures lay hidden in the hills covering the Edwards
Austin and Other Hill Country Treasures
Plateau--they wouldn't have found nuggets of gold or veins of silver, but the sparkling springs and glowing sunsets have proven to be priceless. Here, wealth is measured in entrepreneurship, creative inspiration, and quality of life.
Living the Rich Life
Living, working, and playing in Austin and the surrounding Texas Hill Country is akin to being part of a utopian society. Without a doubt, all the elements that make up a little slice of heaven on earth are right here: music, from country rock to new age, fills the air; the local dining scene, once limited to barbecue and Tex-Mex, has blossomed into a gastronomic bouquet; and the cultural renaissance that took a giant step forward with the opening of the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum two years ago continues with the unveiling of two other treasure-laden museums.
Then there are the scenic views. Verdant hills that roll out from the city blur with big blue skies and sparkling lakes to create an unsurpassed masterpiece of natural beauty. Crystal-clear waters spill over limestone ledges into natural grottoes, and artesian springs bubble from deep underground.
Texans aren't the only ones who view this as heavenly. In a recent poll conducted by America Online, more than half a million responses were used to rank 25 U.S. cities, Austin placed among the four most frequently and affectionately mentioned. It ranked in the top five for best cultural attractions, best-looking people, friendliest, and best place in spring.
Over the past 30 years, the little carefree college town has grown into a big city. Although the University of Texas student population has mushroomed to 52,000 students and upscale neighborhoods of million-dollar homes dot every hill, there's still an unmistakable ambience in Austin. Amazingly, it manages to avoid the cookie-cutter syndrome and remain an absolute original.
You know you're in Austin when a cross-dresser runs for mayor (and gets a fair share of votes), nightly bat flights are among the biggest tourist draws, and the unofficial city slogan urges "Keep Austin Weird."
Beneath the soft glow of Hill Country sunsets (O. Henry called it Austin's violet crown), Austin harbors more than its share of rare and priceless gems. We'll explore the heart of the city and then move beyond the city limits to savor the essence of the Hill Country.
Capitol Assets
Two landmarks anchor the city: the Texas State Capitol and the University of Texas. Constructed of pink Texas granite quarried from Marble Falls, the Texas State Capitol bears a grand symbol of a grand state. It also represents the driving force behind Austin's economy, the state government.
Reflecting the same warm glow that marks sunsets over Austin, the building stands as the largest statehouse in the country. In addition, it towers above the nation's Capitol by 15 feet. Completed in 1888, the structure marks the high point in the career of architect Elijah E. Myers, often called the greatest capitol-builder of the Gilded Age.
Atop the dome stands the Goddess of Liberty. The original goddess, replaced during restoration of the Capitol in the early 1990s, is now on display at the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum.
After seven years of construction, the Texas State Capitol measured more than 310 feet in height; contained 392 rooms, 924 windows, and 404 doors; and cost a total of $3,744,600. A Marble Falls landowner donated the granite for the building. A contractor used 1,000 convicts to quarry the stone, until a granite-cutter's union objected, so he imported experienced stonecutters from Scotland for the job.
An underground extension completed in 1993 compliments the beauty and architectural integrity of the original structure. The 65-foot-deep hole for the extension had to be carved out of solid rock. It now houses legislative offices, an auditorium, a cafeteria, and a gift shop. A bank of skylights provides natural light as well as a spectacular view of the Capitol above. The design on the floor of the open-air rotunda mirrors that of the Capitol rotunda ceiling, including bronze letters spelling out "Texas" around a lone star.
The Capitol Information and Guide Service conducts free daily tours that begin in the south wing on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Saturdays from 9:30 a.m to 3:30 p.m., and Sundays from noon to 3:30 p.m. For group reservations, call 512-463-0063.
Just east of the State Capitol, the old General Land Office building resembles a medieval castle rather than the oldest state office building. Built in 1857, the three-stow structure now houses the Capitol Visitors Center.
The center's largest exhibit area features star-shaped kiosks where computer terminals link visitors to six eras of Texas history and a virtual tour of the State Capitol. One exhibit," XIT: A Capitol Deal," relates details of the complex financing scheme for the Capitol's construction. A Chicago-based syndicate agreed to pay for construction in exchange for three million acres of Panhandle land. The group converted it into the XIT, the world's largest fenced ranch. In the O. Henry Room, fans of the short-story writer learn details of his career as a state employee and his life in Austin. Before he became known as O. Henry, William Sydney Porter worked for the General Land Office as a draftsman.
The Capitol Visitors Center is open Monday through Saturday, 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 4 p.m. For information, call 512-305-8400.
The third monumental building constructed during the state's infancy was the Texas Governor's Mansion, the most historic house in Texas and the fourth oldest governor's residence in the country. Austin master builder Abner Cook completed the "suitable residence" in 1856 for $14,500. Elisha Marshall Pease and his family moved in as the mansion's first residents. With only a $2,500 furniture allowance from the Legislature, the Peases brought much of their own furniture. When Sam Houston was elected governor in 1859, he immediately ordered a massive mahogany four-poster bed for the sparsely furnished house. That bed, considered the most historically significant of the furnishings, remains the centerpiece of the Sam Houston bedroom on the second floor.
In the early 1960s First Lady Jean Houston Daniel started the Governors' Memento Collection. She contacted the families of past governors and asked them to donate either an item used in the mansion or a personal family item. Each successive governor leaves a memento. Among the items are a silver, turquoise, and amethyst necklace and earrings given to Governor Ann Richards and a Union Civil War sword that belonged to Governor Edmund J. Davis. Tours of the Texas Governor's Mansion begin every 20 minutes between 10 and 11:40 a.m., Monday through Thursday. For group reservations and daily updates (the mansion closes at the discretion of the governor), call 512-463-5516.
First-Class University
In addition to mapping out downtown Austin in 1840, the city's first mayor, Edwin Waller, set aside the original 40 acres for a "university of the first class" as deemed by the Texas Legislature. Those 40 acres grew into the largest college campus in the country. An astounding 52,000 students will file through the University of Texas this year. As in years past, some of...
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