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Article Excerpt
Austin
UPDATE Aquarelle 606 Rio Grande (512-479-8117). Ignore the floozies on Sixth Street brazenly hawking their wares. Down a side street sits this gem of a French restaurant, politely beckoning with tiny white lights and a curry-yellow facade. Inside, exciting things are happening. We went craving seafood, and we weren't disappointed. The tuna with baby artichokes, herbes de Provence, and lemon-infused olive oil was a vibrant marriage of flavors, as was the horseradish-crusted salmon with lemon-caper beurre blanc. As for the succulent sauteed lobster with a sprightly tomato confit and sweet-onion coulis--enough said, Beer & wine, Dinner Tue-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 6-10:15. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive to very expensive (prix fixe four-course $50, six-course upon request $75). Cr. (W+) Bistro 88 2712 Bee Caves Rd (512-328-8888). Bistro 88 is warm and inviting, its atmosphere stylishly in tune with its Euro-Asian cuisine. We started with on-the-house wonton shooters, which were plump enough to require more than one shot. Tempura-battered crab-stuffed prawns completed an evening of pure contentment. Bar. Lunch Sun 11:30-2, Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Expensive. Cr. (W+) Curra's 614 E. Oltorf (512-444-0012). This colorful South Austin joint is not only the Mother of All Mex, as the sign boisterously declares, but also the home of a funky vibe, wisecracking servers, liberal payment options (euros? pesos?--no problema), and indeed, authentic Mexican food. We devoured tangy octopus ceviche, homemade corn tortillas oozing with queso flameado, and spicy pollo con mole. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Moderate, Cr. (W+) UPDATE Eastside Cafe 2113 Manor Rd (512-476-5858). This quiet, pretty little house used to have one of our favorite outdoor patios. The same spot is now an enclosed garden room, still a pleasant setting for weekend brunching on blueberry blintzes, Belgian waffles, and perfectly executed eggs Florentine or Benedict (the smoked-salmon version is a decadent treat). Lunches and dinners offer entrees, pastas, soups, and salads that often incorporate produce from Eastside's organic garden. Beer & wine. Open Sun 10-10, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 10-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+) * Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Twinkling lights greet you at this limestone ranch house, while the blackened smokehouse assures you that meaty treats await. An entree of venison backstrap wrapped around smoked lobster lacked the richness we expected, but a guava-sour cherry sauce perked it up nicely. We'd dine here often if more affordable wines by the bottle were offered. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+) Jean Luc's Bistro 705 Colorado (512-494-0033). With a fresh face-lift, Jean Luc's is an appealing, clean-lined showcase for chef-owner Shawn Cirkiel's New American menu. On our visit the kitchen was hitting homers. Hints of wild sage and bits of prosciutto bolstered a creamy butternut squash soup, while a bravura entree of duck confit on delicious brown lentils had a beautifully edgy citrus sauce. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) ** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Jeffrey's is still the high priest of fine dining in Austin, bestowing upon the faithful inventive Mediterranean and Asian-influenced cuisine in a simple, sophisticated setting. Our favorites: an exhilarating appetizer of impossibly sweet serrano prawns and a meltingly tender veal ossobuco teamed with caramelized-onion polenta and sun-dried-tomato horseradish. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $55 & $75). Cr. (W) With assistance. UPDATE Kenichi 419 Colorado (512-320-8883). Beautiful people eating beautiful food amid beautiful environs--yeah, our head turned a time or two during a recent visit to this warehouse district hot spot. Dynamite Shrimp were the first cause for a double take; stretched long across a black ceramic dish and garnished with fiery orange salmon eggs, the tempura-battered crustacean was a kapow! of a starter. The evening's special (macadamia-crusted butterfish drizzled with a coconut-wasabi vinaigrette) satisfied, but it was dessert--tempura fried ice cream--that engaged us in a game of dueling spoons. Bar. Dinner Sun-Wed 5:30-10, Thur-Sat 5:30-11. Expensive to very expensive. Cr. (W+) Las Palomas 3201 Bee Caves Rd (512-327-9889). From a dozen or so seafood entrees, our gracious server guided us to the camaron al chipotle, butterflied shrimp in a spicy sauce. We were also fond of the banderillas, three delicious, sour-creamy chicken flautas (which we eventually found after excavating a mound of lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and jalapenos). Rich terra-cotta hues lend a warm glow to the family-friendly setting. Bar. Lunch Tue-Sat 11-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate. Cr. (W+) UPDATE Manuel's 310 Congress Ave (512-472-7555). Sometimes you don't want the shock of the new; sometimes you want a rock-solid stalwart like Manuel's downtown location, where the interior Mexican menu can be counted on for the likes of chicken-breast enchiladas with a rich, dark ancho-chile sauce and migas that are some of the city's better migas (perfect scrambled eggs with perky serrano and tomato accents and a sprinkle of jack cheese, available off the menu). In the evening, the list of entrees is dominated by various fish dishes. Abstract artwork has given the place a bit of an update. Bar. Sun 11-9, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+) Mirabelle 8127 Mesa Dr (512-346-7900). Last visit we made two meals out of four appetizers, two favorites being the smoked-trout cakes and the blackened Gulf shrimp (with roasted pecans, a bock-beer glaze, and a Gorgonzola cream sauce). For dessert, we had the excellent fried Brie with an apple-ginger chutney. Mirabelle's decor needs a little updating (imagine a basement sale at Pottery Barn), but we like this friendly neighborhood spot's food. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-10 Closed Sun. Upper moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) Thistle Cafe CarrAmerica Building, 300 W. 6th (512-275-9777). Chef James Blanton's dinner menu goes for the gusto: chunky cream of tomato soup, Muscovy-duck purses (fried meat-filled wonton wrappers sided by dabs of fresh goat cheese), and rare pepper-crusted ahi tuna with marvelous whipped saffron potatoes, garnished by too many kalamata olives and capers. Silvery, snaky wire chandeliers complement the cafe's modern Asian look. Bar. Open Mon-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Closed Sun. Call for other location. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) Vespaio 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Go ahead: Offer yourself up on the altar of decadence. Chef-owner Alan Lazarus' braised beef short ribs will simply not be denied, and his fat ravioli threaten to burst at the seams with ground veal and pecorino romano cheese, all aswim in a grappa and tomato butter sauce (like cream of tomato soup for grown-ups). Bar (until midnight). Dinner Sun 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Men. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) Zoot 509 Hearn (512-477-6535). Chef Michael Hall's New American menu is bringing changes to this neighborhood cottage. A terrific starter of truffled Peruvian blue potatoes strutted its stuff alongside a leek confit and irresistibly cute boiled quail eggs. If only the medium-rare duck entree (with poached figs and great gnocchi) had been more tender, it would have been perfect. Beer & wine. Dinner Sun & Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Men. Reservations recommended. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) UPDATE Z'Tejas 9400 Arboretum Blvd (512-346-3506). With its wood-and-limestone architecture, soaring ceilings, and airy patio nestled in the trees, this northern outpost of the beloved Austin-born chain evokes a Hill Country lodge. We weren't thrilled with the deafening din and the hurried service--our entrees arrived minutes after our appetizers--but we enjoyed our selections from a menu that wanders from West Coast to Gulf Coast. The pan-fried snapper, in particular, topped with crabmeat, salsa fresca, and cilantro cream sauce was a crunchy, salty, tangy delight. Bar. Open Sun 10-10, Men-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 10-11. Call for other location. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT Crimson 407 Colorado (512-473-2700). Gilligan's old space looks nothing like its former self: Red steel supports overhead and novel artwork on the walls have given the tall, buff-brick walls a needed lift. On the menu, "naughty" and "nice" sections (high-cal and lesser-cal) feature an eclectic mix of competent, if not spectacular, dishes. Appropriately naughty, dramatically presented fried wontons came filled with minced shrimp and tasso and accompanied by a sweet Thai dipping sauce, while a light salad of baby spinach salad was topped by thin-sliced, very fresh ahi tuna, lightly crusted with pistachios and seared--nice, in both senses of the word. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Moderate. Cr. (W+) Beaumont--Port Arthur Carlo's 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). This old standby for Italian and Greek fare must have been having an off night. Our Greek salad lacked the expected feta cheese, and an appetizer, Carlo's Famous Riceball--sweet sticky rice filled with chili meat and seasoned with cinnamen--had little flavor despite the promising ingredients. The experience was redeemed by the charming Sunday night pianist. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W) Crockett Street Deli and Black Gold Coffee House 270 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-0155). The entertainment district is the perfect setting for this New York-style deli. Our hot pastrami on rye was piled high with tender, peppery meat and Swiss cheese (and good sauerkraut, which made up for the missing Thousand Island dressing). Kudos to espresso drinks and cheerful service. Mon & Tue 7 a.m.-8 p.m., Wed & Thur 7 a.m.-8 p.m. (coffee shop till midnight), Fri 7 a.m.-8 p.m. (coffee shop till 2 a.m.), Sat 11 a.m.-8 p.m. (coffee shop till 2 a.m.). Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) UPDATE Elena's 6290 Phelan (409-861-2800) and 1865 College (409-832-1203), Beaumont. We found the Phelan location of this Mexican restaurant a charming and relaxing spot for lunch. The cheesy goodness of the casserole-like queso fundido con pollo was worth every fat-laden calorie. Our companion's pechuga con queso, a grilled chicken breast topped with queso and served with rice and beans, was one of the $4.95 lunch specials and a generous bargain. Next time we'll try camarones ala plancha, gulf shrimp sauteed in garlic butter. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 8 a.m.-9 p.m, Fri & Sat 8-10. Call for hours at other location. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) UPDATE Hoffbrau Steaks 2310 N. 11th, Beaumont (409-892-6911). The outdoor beer garden is the real draw of this otherwise typical Texas steakhouse (each of the 26 locations is individually owned). We started with the Brau Sampler, a platter of boudin balls, thinly sliced fried potatoes, fried mushrooms, and fried cheese. We got what we paid for with the $16.95 Texas T-bone, a generous 16-ounce cut of tender meat. The chicken kebab was moist and flavorful, but short on the promised vegetables (bell peppers, onions, cherry tomatoes, and mushrooms). Bar. Open Sun 11-9, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+) Quality Cafe 730 Liberty, Beaumont (409-835-9652). This cafe has been serving hearty home cooking in the same downtown location since 1930. You can't beat the endearingly retro plate-lunch specials (served with two vegetables, potato salad, and dessert). On our visit the choices were hamburger steak, fried chicken, and chicken-fried steak. We went with the last, plus fresh mustard greens, cornbread dressing, and peach cobbler--wow! Open Mon-Fri 6-3. Closed Sat & Sun. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) UPDATE Willy Ray's 145 I-10N, Beaumont (409-832-7770). The place didn't make our top 50 barbecue joints this go-around, but we still appreciate the Saint Louis pork spareribs (large, lean, and meaty), Willy's brisket, the carrot souffle and the garlic potatoes. Numerous to-go meals are on display in a freezer, ready to take home and heat up. The decor is atypical for a barbecue place: dark, polished woods and floral prints. Beer & wine. Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Inexpensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) Corpus Christi UPDATE Bayou Grill 3741 S. Alameda (361-854-8626). We like the tiny skillet of sweet cornbread that begins each meal, but in our opinion, most everything else needs work. Our fried shrimp stuffed with seasoned bread crumbs were not memorable, and our cajun potatoes proved bland and visually unappealing (a scoop of them came in a tiny bowl). At least the creamy coarse-cut coleslaw stood out. Decor is faux-swamp, including old fishing nets and wooden signs. Beer & wine. Open Sun 11-2, Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W) Da Ke 5301 Everhart Rd (361-851-9191). Dine at the sushi bar or teppan-yaki (tableside grills), where you can watch the chefs chop, flip, catch, and otherwise get things sizzling. A recent meal included fragrant miso soup and chicken teriyaki tossed with fried rice, zucchini, cabbage, and onions. The fare, though predictable, is fresh and tasty. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Sun 5-9, Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Moderate. Ct. (W) Mamma Mia's 128 N. Mesquite (361-883-3773). A thoroughly Italian atmosphere and plenty of personal attention (chef Marino Delzotto frequently visits tables) make for a happy evening A recent meal began with good fresh bread and a crisp Caesar salad. Our main course of pasta rustica proved a delicious blend of sausage, asparagus, and green onion tossed with penne in a garlicky sauce. Beer & wine. Open Tue-Sat at 5; closing times vary. Closed Sun & Mort. Moderate. No Cr. (W) UPDATE Republic of Texas atop Omni Bayfront Hotel, 900 N. Shoreline (361-886-3515). The view of the Corpus Christi Bay (from 20 stories up) is stunning, perfect for a special night out. The offerings are impressive too, from delicious wilted spinach salad, tossed with hot bacon dressing, to a perfectly cooked 24-ounce bone-in ribeye. At our astute waiter's recommendation, we tried the ahi tuna--a sesame-coated, pan-seared steak in a sweet port reduction with a small jasmine rice cake. Good wine selection. Bar. Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30, Reservations recommended. Expensive, Cr. (W) UPDATE Rusty's 1645 Airline (361-993-5000), When you must have a thick burger on a homemade bun, it's hard to beat this casual eatery. You can have almost any topping you desire, from avocado to pico de gallo. (We went for Swiss and grilled onions.) As for the sides, we prefer the crisp curly fries to the thick-cut ones; the huge onion rings are all right but could use some oomph. A chicken sandwich is an option for those wanting something lighter. In any event, save room for a cookie or brownie. Beer & wine. Open 7 days 11-10, Moderate. Cr. (W) Water Street Seafood Company 309 N. Water (361-882-8683). Well-prepared fresh seafood and outstanding service keep locals and tourists coming back to this downtown spot. We began a recent meal with the aptly named Caribbean Dynamite Sticks--crawfish, shrimp, jalapeno cheese, and chiles rolled into flour tortillas, then deep fried and served with guacamole and pico de gallo. A tossed salad with creamy walnut dressing cooled us down. Glowing blowfish lights overhead lend a properly marine atmosphere. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Moderate. Cr. (W) Dallas Abacus 4511 McKinney (214-559-3111). Duck Two Ways was a showstopper: part roasted, Peking-style, and paired with a fiery Volcano Sauce; the rest shredded and stuffed with shiitake mushrooms into pancakes, mu-shu style. The kitchen's impressive skills slipped only with a limp and over-dressed salad. Dramatically lit space. Bar, Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat...
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