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Article Excerpt
Austin
Asti Trattoria 408 E. 43rd (512-451-1218). With service as smart as the decor, this Hyde Park standby was packed on a recent lunchtime outing. The first-rate food should probably be credited as well. Penne pasta with artichokes, spinach, and a quartet of cheeses was exceptional. And by the looks of our companion's cleared plate, a similar adjective would suit the saffron seafood risotto with shrimp, calamari, and clams. Tiramisu proved a rich, classic finish. Beer & wine. Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) Cheesecake Factory Arboretum shopping center, 10000 Research Blvd (512-241-0777). In this vast space, a fantasy temple cum art-deco theater, you wouldn't be surprised to find Indiana Jones and Cleopatra in a compromising situation. Decor aside, the food isn't bad for a nationwide chain restaurant with 59 locations. We quite liked shrimp scampi sauteed with tomato and white wine (served with a blob of angel-hair pasta), and the crab cakes, plenty crabby, were just fine. Bar. Sun 10:30-11, Mon-Thur 11-11:30, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Moderate. No reservations taken. Cr. (W+) Demi Epicurious 311 W. 6th (512-478-2200). Immense chandeliers draped Mardi Gras-style brighten the beige brick interior of this cutting-edge place. Seldom have we had better duck--slices of pink, butter-tender breast in a potato-and-brussels-sprouts hash with a sweet pomegranate bordelaise sauce. And kudos to the coriander-crusted venison loin in a superbly flavorful morel veal sauce. Bar. Dinner 7 days 5:30-11. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) Guero's Taco Bar 1412 S. Congress Ave (512-447-7688). The 45-minute wait at this casual, sprawling South Austin spot didn't send us scurrying on a recent Saturday night--we knew satisfying Mexican fare would reward our patience. Chicken fajitas with all the fixings plus rice and refried beans easily fed three. And our companion's shrimp tacos disappeared in a matter of minutes. Bar. Open Sun 8 a.m.-11 p.m., Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 8 am.-11 p.m. Moderate. Cr. (W+) UPDATE * Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Twinkling lights greet you at this limestone ranch house restaurant, while the blackened smokehouse assures you that meaty treats await. An entree of venison backstrap wrapped around smoked lobster lacked the richness we expected, but a guava-sour cherry sauce perked it up nicely. The "hot and crunchy" ruby trout, which gets an extra kick from mango habanero aioli, has become one of our favorite fish dishes in town. We'd dine here more often if affordable wines by the bottle were offered. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. (W+) Iron Works Barbeque 100 Red River (512-478-4855). Walking into this creaky red-tin building, we feel like we're in a small-town barbecue joint rather than in downtown Austin. While debating what to order, we overheard one customer tell another, "It's all good." Amen: The beef ribs were moist and flavorful, the smoked chicken tender, and the pulled-pork sandwich plump and vinegary. Beer & wine. Open Mon-Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. Inexpensive to lower moderate. AE, DC, MC, V. (W) ** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Hurrah! Jeffrey's has kicked its Southwestern cuisine habit. A beautiful pureed soup of parsnips, roasted pears, and creme fraiche came with a garnish of lobster meat. Chewy shellfish aside, it was nigh perfect. So were velvety smoked sea scallops and pristine mussels in a kicky tomato saffron broth. Renderings of desert plants brighten the simple rooms. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended. Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $55 & $75). Cr. (W) With assistance. Kobe Japanese Steakhouse 13492 N. US Hwy 183 (512-288-7333). All glossy wood and polished steel, this steakhouse is great fun: Join a communal table and watch as your chef tosses fresh, skillfully prepared steak and seafood in your direction. And the name's no fib: If you desire the marbled-beef delicacy from the pampered Wagyu breed, they've got it. Just call ahead--and send a deposit. Bar. Open Sun noon-10, Mon-Thur 11-2:30 & 5-10, Fri 11-2:30 & 5-11, Sat 3-11. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) Mars 1610 San Antonio (512-472-3901). We dig the groovy decor, appreciate the efficient servers, and love the wildly eclectic ethnic menu. One of us had a mixed grill from the tandoori oven (chicken, flank steak, pork tenderloin, and tea-smoked duck). Another had kafta, lamb meat balls spiked with cumin and cilantro. Entrees come with creative grain dishes and anything-but-ho-hum vegetables. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30-10, Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) Mimosa 1530 Barton Springs Rd (512-494-0203). Finally, a worthy destination on the Barton Springs restaurant row. The space is trendy without sacrificing comfort, and the extensive Japanese menu tells you this isn't just another sushi bar. A generous platter of cool sashimi was some of the best we've had in town. We don't usually go for specialty rolls, but the Barton Springs won us over with its eel, asparagus, masago, and tempura salmon. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+) Sarovar 8440 Burnet Rd (512-454-8636). Snow-capped peaks painted on pale-blue walls create a serene backdrop at this house of Indian cuisine. Entrees of chicken vindaloo and saucy lamb Sarovar enlivened our palates without disturbing the tranquility. Both came with a bevy of accompaniments--yogurt, rice pilaf, and tandoori-baked naan. Just one caveat: The service can be glacially slow. Beer & wine. Open Sun 11-10, Mon-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-11, Sat 11-11. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) Starlite 624 W. 34th (512-374-9012). An evening spent in this stylish renovated house near Hyde Park feels like a dinner party with good friends. The sweet-potato gnocchi in nutmeg cream sauce, sprinkled with a 10-year-old balsamic vinegar and topped with shredded duck confit, was dazzling in its presentation and complexity. And a lowly chicken breast--infused with rosemary and served with a wild mushroom fricassee---was a masterpiece of earthy simplicity. Bar. Dinner Wed-Sat 6-11. Sun brunch 11-3. Closed Mon & Tue. Upper moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+) TreeHouse Italian Grill 2201 College Ave, facing S. Congress Ave (512-443-4200). Unpretentiously classy (Carmela Soprano's personal decorator could have had a hand with the interior), the TreeHouse is where we go for ample portions of Italian comfort food. We love the vegetable cannelloni. thin pasta crepes filled with artichoke hearts and fresh spinach. A centuries-old live oak is the centerpiece of the pretty patio. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+) UPDATE Vespaio 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Go ahead: Offer yourself up on the altar of decadence. Chef-owner Alan Lazarus' braised beef short ribs will simply not be denied, nor will the glorious jumble of stewed fingerling potatoes, brussels sprouts, carrots, and hedgehog mushrooms that come with them. Fat ravioli threaten to burst at the seams with ground veal and pecorino romano cheese, all aswim in a grappa and tomato butter sauce (like cream of tomato soup for grown-ups); the perfect fried basil leaf garnish could be mistaken for jade. Only Gorgonzola cauliflower soup, needing a smidge more cheese, seemed bland. Bar (until midnight). Dinner Sun 5:30-10, Tue-Sat 5:30-10:30. Closed Mon. Upper moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) Wink 1014 N. Lamar (512-482-8868). Short name, small space, dainty portions--we like it all in a big way. We started with a warm salad of tender grilled squid with pancetta on frisee. Our rare tuna entree, perhaps a bit cliched these days, was anything but common in an imaginative fennel crust. Beer & wine. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended. Moderate to lower expensive. Cr. (W+) SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT Thistle Cafe CarrAmerica Building lobby, 300 W. 6th (523275-9777). Warehouse district night crawlers have a stylish new dinner venue, downtown office workers a new breakfast and lunch spot. Chef James Blanton's dinner menu goes for the gusto: fine, chunky cream of tomato soup, Muscovy-duck purses (clever, if slightly greasy fried wonton wrappers with a good, meaty filling, sided by dabs of fresh goat chese), and rare pepper-crusted ahi tuna with marvelous whipped saffron potatoes, garnished by too many kalamata olives and capers. The cafe's Asian look (splashes of lacquer red) blends beautifully with modern crafts (silvery, snaky wire chandeliers). Bar. Open Mon-Thur 7 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+) Yoli's Jambalaya 14735 Bratton Ln (512-670-2788). A sign proclaiming "Christ Reigns" hangs over a strip-mall church a few doors down from this tiny restaurant. This is good, since divine assistance is required to get one of the ten or se tables on a Saturday night. But if you can endure the wait and the decor (Bourbon Street exploded in here), you'll be rewarded with cheerful service and robust fare. We could have made a meal of the thick, spicy seafood gumbo alone. And the pistachio shrimp with cucumbermint sauce was as intriguing as it sounds. Beer & wine. Lunch Tue-Fri 11-2. Dinner Thur-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate. Cr. (W+) Beaumont--Port Arthur UPDATE Carlo's 2570 Calder, Beaumont (409-833-0108). This old standby for Italian and Greek fare must have been having an off night. We started with a Greek salad that lacked the expected feta cheese. An appetizer, Carlo's Famous Riceball--sweet sticky rice filled with chili meat and seasoned with cinnamon--had little flavor despite the promising ingredients. The bruccelitini, a thinly sliced steak wrapped around bacon and cheese, was bland as well. The experience was redeemed by the Sunday night pianist who paid a visit to each table. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W) Carmela's 5555 Calder, Beaumont (409-898-4745). Start with the cheesy beef fajita quesadillas (made with mozzarella and American cheese). Or just go for a combo plate--one would satisfy even a linebacker. The bright south-of-the-border decor makes for a fun, laid-back Saturday lunch. Beer & wine. Open Sun 11-3, Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Inexpensive. Cr. (W+) Don's 2290 I-10S, Beaumont (409-842-0686). Take the gang to Don's for seafood combination plates (with the likes of crab and fried or boiled shrimp), shrimp gumbo (with just the right amount of kick), and shrimp pies (darling and delicious). We especially liked the generous crawfish platters. Cozy atmosphere. Bar. Open Sun & Mon 11-9, Tue-Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+) Early Bird Cafe and Coffee 5955 Phelan, Beaumont (409-860-9111). We start Saturday morning with a cup of roasted-on-the-premises coffee, then order the crisp (not greasy) oven-baked "pork-chop style bacon" (a breakfast special on Saturdays). Lunch and dinner run to sandwiches, soups, and salads. Open Mon-Fri 6 a.m.-2 p.m., Sat 7-1. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. DS, MC, V. (W+) Liberty Market and Cafe 1495 Calder, Beaumont (409-832-1188). High ceilings and large windows make this sunny spot perfect for lunching with friends. The creamy tomato basil soup is a good prelude to delectable grilled salmon. For a lighter option, try the New Orleans-style muffuletta sandwich with a side of cajun-style potato salad. Among the extensive desserts, the sweet potato tart stood out. Bar. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2. Dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-9, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun. Cr. (W) UPDATE Olde Town Cafe 2325 Calder, Beaumont (409-832-3044). Located in Beaumont's restored historic neighborhood, this charming cafe inside an old house is ideal for a family meal. We started with excellent kebabs of shrimp, fresh squash, and zucchini (creamy potato soup was another option). Our center-cut pork chops, perfectly seasoned and grilled, came with a side of fresh green beans. In sum, the service is friendly and the food is great. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-3. Dinner Tue-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. Moderate. AE, MC, V. (W) Call ahead. Spindletop 290 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-9688). We enjoy the cheerful space and the trendy vibe at this restaurant named for the city's famous oil gusher. But on a recent visit, both starters, the baked spinach dip and the shrimp gumbo, suffered from sodium overload. Another stumble was too-oily grilled snapper Orleans, topped with dry crawfish and served atop undercooked rice pilaf. We hope the Spindletop of previous visits makes a comeback. Bar. Open Sun 11-8, Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. Cr. (W+) Corpus Christi Lavender Village shopping center, 3815 S. Alameda (361-814-0400). Christopher Aeby's ambitious new restaurant has flair. Butternut squash soup was followed by a salad of mixed greens, Roquefort, candied almonds, apple, and pomegranate seeds. Sauteed trout was served with five slices of fingerling potato and five braised haricots verts all artfully arranged in a tiny pile on an enormous plate. Beer & wine. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive. Cr. (W) UPDATE Mamma Mia's 128 N. Mesquite (361-883-3773). A thoroughly Italian atmosphere, hearty favorites, and plenty of personal attention (chef Marino Delzotto frequently mans the door and visits tables) make for a happy evening. A recent meal began with good fresh bread and a crisp Caesar salad. The tomatoey seafood risotto featured tender bits of calamari, shrimp, and scallops. A companion's pasta rustica proved a delicious blend of sausage, asparagus, and green onion tossed with penne in a garlicky sauce. Beer & wine. Open Tue-Sat 5; closing times vary. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate. No Cr. (W) Taqueria Acapulco 1133 Airline (361-994-7274). Tejano music and bright colors welcome diners to this popular family-owned spot. We recommend the carne asada tacos--soft corn tortillas topped with tender chunks of beef, lettuce, and tomato. Also delicious are the aguacate (avocado) gorditas--thick corn tortillas split and stuffed with a choice of meat, refried beans, and pico de gallo. Beer & wine margaritas. Open 7 days 6 a.m.-11 p.m. Inexpensive. Cr. (W) Thailand 5505 Saratoga (361-980-0404). What the place lacks in decor it makes up for in the likes of an excellent chicken curry, pungent and slightly spicy. Just as tasty are roll-your-own nam tah dear, a mixture of rice, chicken, and ginger served with a platter of cilantro, bean sprouts, and romaine lettuce leaves for wrapping. Beer & wine. Open Mon-Fri 11-3 & 5-10, Sat noon-10. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W) Water Street Oyster Bar 309 N. Water (361-881-9448). Some of the city's finest seafood is served inside this renovated garage. We treated ourselves to an order of Texas pecan--crusted oysters--crisp, nutty, and tender. Maplebourbon barbecued salmon was laid atop a bed of mixed greens, black beans, corn, and strips of multicolored fried tortillas. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Moderate. Cr. (W+) SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT Da Ke 5301 Everhart Rd (361-851-9191). Dine at the sushi bar or teppan-yaki (tableside grills), where you can watch the chefs chop, flip, catch, and otherwise get things sizzling. A recent meal included fragrant miso soup and chicken teriyaki tossed with fried rice, zucchini, cabbage, and onions. The atmosphere is pleasant, and the fare, though predictable, is fresh and tasty. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner Sun 5-9, Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-10:30. Moderate. Cr. (W) Dallas Angry Dog 2726...
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