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Article Excerpt
APRIL 2004
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing, Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine, Restaurant reviews are updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars design a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express. DC: Diners Club and Catre Blanche. DS: Discover MC: MasterCard. V: Visa Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage) not including wine, cocktails tax, and tip. Inexpensive: Less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible,
Austin
Alborz Persian Cuisine 3300 W. Anderson Ln (512-420-2222) You'll find a variety of kebabs and four hearty stews to choose from (try the khoresh gheymeh, a seductive blend of sauteed beef and yellow split peas in a tomato-saffron sauce), but we were most entranced by appetizers such as garlicky hummus and tangy baked eggplant topped with yogurt and mint Memorabilia on the walls sets a Middle Eastern tone. Beer & wine. Open Sun-Thur 11:30-9:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Artz Rib House 2330 S. Lamer Blvd (512-442-8283). Artz isn't fancy--there's no ATM inside--but it does serve good 'cue. The Country Pork Ribs--a platter of three big tasty ribs with slaw, beans, and potato salad--is reason enough to eat here. We like the sausage too. Beer & wine. Open Sun noon-9, Mon-Sat 11-10. Moderate Cr. (W)
[UPDATE] Bellagio Italian Bistro 6507 Jester Blvd (512-346-8228). And the award for "brutal honesty in service" goes to ... the knowledgeable and frank waiter on our recent visit to this classic, taupe-toned dining room. What a treat to be so thoroughly guided to the menu's hits and so judiciously warned of its misses. And since we're handing out awards, we'd like to give one to the waiter-recommended special of homemade ravioli, which were plump with sausage and broccoli, aswim in a light parsley cream sauce, and simply awesome. Unfortunately, we failed to ask for a dessert recommendation and ended up ordering just-average tiramisu. Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Set 5:30-11. Closed Sun. Reservations recommended weekends. Expensive. Cr.
Cafe at the Four Seasons 98 San Jacinto (512-685-8300). Tucked beneath the see-and-be-seen lobby bar, the Cafe showcases an international approach to Texas classics: quail breast is smoked over green tea, while a tender beet tenderloin gets a bubbling crust of Manchego. Bar (light fare 2-6). Breakfast Sun 7-10:30, Mon-Fri 6:30-11, Sat 7-11:30. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2. Dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Sat brunch 11:30-2, Sun brunch 10:30-2. Very expensive. Cr. (W+)
Chez Nous 510 Neches (512-473-2413) Tired of hamburgers and sandwiches, we hit this downtown French bistro for lunch. A bowl of savory potato-and-leek soup and a special of melt-in-your mouth trout meuniere were just what we needed to recharge our batteries. Lace curtains spiff up the casual decor. Beer & wine. Lunch Tue-Fri 11:45-2. Dinner Sun & Tue-Sat 6-10:30 Closed Mon. Moderate to expensive. Cr.
Driskill Grill 604 Brazos (512-391-7162). The opulent dining room (rich fabrics, china-laden tables) was a nice reprieve from minimalist decors of late. We were enchanted with the food too. The moist striped black sea bass with crab chowder was fantastic, and our starter of grilled quail with a coriander-orange-curd sauce was even better. Bar. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive to very expensive (chef's tasting menus $125 & $165). Cr. (W+)
Fonda San Miguel 2330 W. North Loop Blvd (512-459-4121). Start with the creamy corn chowder, then follow up with the fine pescado tikin xik, an achiote-rubbed fish filet garnished with pickled-red-onion slices and sided by an exceptionally tasty tomato-based sauce. The haciendalike dining room has charm to spare. Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri-Sat 5-10:30. Sun brunch 11-2. Upper moderate to expensive. DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
* Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam(512-266-1369). From the boldly inventive, game-centered menu (with dishes like rattlesnake cakes and an adventuresome wild boar schnitzel with apple cider-brandy sauce) to the bungalowlike building evenings at Hudson's are a treat Bar Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends. Expensive to very expensive. Cr. (W+)
Jean-Luc's Bistro 705 Colorado (512-494-0033). Uninspired decor notwithstanding, chef Shawn Cirkiel's imaginative food is dazzling. Our favorites at this pleasant downtown spot: exquisite potato gnocchi, refreshingly simple roasted cod with crispy squid and steamed clams in a tarragon broth, a gloriously rich beef filet in a Shiraz reduction, and a chilled-plum-soup palate cleanser. Bar. Dinner Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun & Mon Expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] ** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584) We had a VIP moment when the parking valet announced that the test of our party was waiting in the bar. But that high level of service is what we expect at Jeffrey's. We also expect exceptional food, so we were surprised when our lamb T-bone arrived way too rare. The second incarnation--medium-rare and velvety--set the world right again and matched our fond feelings for the tender grilled quail and silky lobster bisque. We felt a little tilt, though, when we tasted the Chocolate Intemperance, a dense, dark chocolate mousse-cake spiked with espresso and Grand Marnier; though good, the signature dessert didn't wow us like it should have. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended Expensive to very expensive (tasting menus $38 & $60) Cr. (W) With assistance.
[UPDATE] Mars 1610 San Antonio (512-472-3901). Home to both neighborhood folks and hipsters, Mars, done up in hues of orangey-red and black, conjures a vibe that's both red hot and nonchalantly cool. It's an apt setting for the global eclectic menu of tandoor specialties, curries, noodle bowls, and more. Pork loin came stuffed with baby spinach, Thai chiles, and shiitakes (paired with wasabi mashed potatoes), while a ginger-glazed wahoo was offered with pickled fennel and tobiko (flying fish roe)--a fusion of flavors both complementary and exciting. Bar Dinner Sun & Mon 5:30 10, Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Moderate Cr. (W+)
Sullivan's 300 Colorado (512-495-6504). On a recent weeknight, almost every table in the posh dining room was taken. Unfortunately, our meal wasn't nearly as satisfying as the people watching. Our medium-rare New York strip lacked flavor, but the pork chops were good, and we nibbled as close to the bone as we could Bar Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30 2. Dinner Sun 5-10, Mon-Fri 5:30-11,Sat 5-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Taj Palace 6700 Middle Fiskville Rd (512-452-9959) the pleasantly pink dining room of this longtime favorite for northern Indian cuisine was bustling on a Tuesday, many diners lured by the abundant buffet Choosing from the menu, we were disappointed with the assorted samosas and pakoras. Served on a limp leaf of iceberg, the batter-fried items were indistinguishable one from the other. But we were pleased with the offerings of the tandoor: a tender mixed grill, which included chicken and lamb, and an entree of murg tikka makhni, moist chicken bathed in a fragrant herbed tomato sauce. Beer & wine Lunch Sun 11:30-2:30, Mon-Fri 11-2, Sat 11:30-2:30. Dinner Sun 5:30-10:30, Mon-Fri 5:30-10, Sat 5:30-10:30, Moderate. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Uchi 1801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808) Whenever we frequent this modish spot, we feel like part of the in crowd Here you'll find thirtysomethings (and a little upward) with chopsticks clicking as they devour beautifully arranged pieces of sushi. We're especially fond of the toro and yellowfin. But everything chef-owner Tyson Cole creates--from the maguro sashimi with chunks of goat cheese to the hakujin, a sushi roll of salmon and grilled as paragus coated in warm tempura flakes--is delicious Keep track of what you order; it adds up quickly. Beer, wine & sake. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. AE, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Vivo 2015 Manor Rd (512-482-0300) This colorful space was buzzing during our recent lunchtime drop-in, and its easy to see why: good, affordable, and--here's the kicker--healthy (well, healthier than most) Mexican food. Like a lovesick pup, we can't seem to resist the smoky salsa of the subtle enchiladas verdes. Our companion's vegetable chalupa (with lard-free beans, guacamole, and sprouts), however, didn't send her head over heels. Bar. Open Mon 11:3, Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Finn and Porter Hilton Hotel, 500 E. 4th (512-493-4900). Towering ceilings, lights suspended from wires like shooting stars, a wall of glass that frames the icy Frost tower; This place feels cosmopolitan; indeed, the folks behind the Hilton's new steak and seafood restaurant (replete with sushi bar) openly desire to compete with Austin's heavyweights. Alas, the service (distracted) and the noise level (crowded gymnasium) suggest that they have a way to go, but the food--plump crab cakes atop tangy apple scallion slaw, a perfectly cooked eight-ounce filet in Madeira sauce, sweet butter-poached lobster atop earthy chanterelle risotto--premises a force to be reckoned with. Bar. Dinner 7 days 5-11. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
McCormick and Schmick's Frost Bank Tower, 401 Congress Ave (612-236-9600). Known for its fresh seafood and daily changing menus, this national chain recently opened an outpost in downtown's newest skyscraper. The upscale decor suited the hordes of business executives lunching on the likes of blue crab from Newport, Oregon, and red snapper from Seadrift, Texas. The mahimahi (from Hilo, Hawaii) was fantastic--the delicate, moist fish came perched on a bed of Asian slaw (pineapple!). But our bland bowl of gumbo might as well have come from a mix, and the black mussels were gritty. Bar. Open Sun 4-11, Mon Thur 11-11, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 4-midnight. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
Beaumont-Port Arthur
Brad's Place 2306 Hazel, Beaumont (409-839-8100). Typically, if you're required to you seat yourself and order from a menu scribbled across a Dry-Erase board, you don't expect upscale entrees. Yet that's exactly what you'll find at this be hemian favorite. Our filet Gorgonzola, tender beef wrapped around rich cheese, was worth every penny. BYOB. Open Mon & Tue 11-2, Wed-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Rio Ritas 230 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-0750). A classy Tex Mex restaurant has opened on Crockett Street Pollo Mexico--grilled chicken breast in poblano cream sauce sided by rice and frijoles a la charra--was the evening's best bet The upstairs balcony is perfect for warm-weather dining. Open Sun-Tue 11-9, Wed & Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun brunch 11-2. Moderate. DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] The Schooner 1507 US Hwy 69S, Nederland (409-722-2323). Reliable for a fresh catch since 1947, this seafood institution will leave you feeling like you've dined below deck--scant windows give that effect. Worth the trip aboard: fried catfish tasting as though it had been caught that morning and shrimp stuffed with a flavorful onion-parsley cornbread mixture. Bar Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Texas Star Cafe 205 US Hwy 69N, Colmesneil (409-837-4444). Every town needs a country-style place for locals to gather and gossip. Colmesneil has the quaint TSC. The burgers are juicy, the meat is cut on the premises, the peach cobbler is out of this world, and the servers could not be more accomodating. Bar Open Sun 7-9, Mon-Thur 10-9, Fri 10-10, Sat 7-19. Inexpensive, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Tuffy's Eatery 11261 Texas Hwy 12, Mauriceville (409-745-3170) Antique furniture lends a from-another-era charm to this country-cajun spot. Mish Mash Chopped Steak (grilled sirloin topped with melted cheddar and diced tomatoes, onions, and green and red peppers) was full of flavor, while the chicken-fried steak was fried to crisp, golden perfection. Open Sun 11-8, Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Sanderson's Bar and Grill 2095 U.S. Hwy 69N, Nederland (409-722-8900). This area newcomer is already beginning to write the book on delicious, affordable fare. We followed a starter of moist and tender pork ribs with blackened chicken, perfectly seasoned with various spices and cayenne pepper, over a bed of creamy fettuccine Alfredo. Dark woods, high ceilings, and attentive service give this bar and grill a friendly, familiar feel. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Crystal's 4119 S. Staples (361-857-8081). At Crystal's, kids can watch the electric train as it winds around the ceiling-high track while waiting for good eats like burgers and sandwiches, The potato skins are done right here, and we also like the spinach quiche and the accompanying tossed salad in a fried tortilla shell Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-9:80, Fri & Sat 11-10:30 Moderate. Cr. (W)
Republic of Texas 20th floor, Omni Corpus Christi Hotel, 900 N. Shoreline Dr (361-886-3515). The view? A 10. The food? Pretty close. The thick 16-ounce New York strip was the star el our meal--tender and flavorful. The accompanying steamed asparagus spears in a creamy hollandaise sauce rated high roe Ditto the chocolate-iced chocolate cake Bar Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Expensive. Cr. (W)
Small Planet Delicatessen and Bakery 3824 S. Alameda (361-855-1892). The art filled deli is known for fresh sandwiches and frothy cappuccino. We love the creamy shrimp-and-roasted corn bisque, which nicely balances the sweetness of the corn with a hint of cayenne. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-5, Sat 8-5. Closed Sun. Inexpensive. Cr. (W)
Thai Cottage 5830 McArdle Rd (361-993-43777). We fell in love with a tasty yellow curry on a recent visit to this tiny restaurant with peach and lime-colored walls. A companion's Princess Chicken--sauteed with mushrooms, onion, and zucchini--was a trifle bland. Expect a wait at lunch. Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-3. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr.
[UPDATE] Water Street Oyster Bar 309 N. Water (361-881-9448). We can't resist the crunchy, pecan-crusted fried oysters at this popular downtown restaurant. The caldo xochitl (chicken soup rich with chick-peas and topped with fresh tomato and avocado) and the mesquite-grilled salmon flaky and tender--are no-brainers too. A massive reproduction of The Birth of Venus adds a funk element to this renovated warehouse. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Aka Sushi 415 N. Water (361-882-8885). The fluorescent fish painting (with requisite black light) adds drama to this small Japanese restaurant with red walls and paper lanterns. But the story really unfolds in the kitchen: crisp yet cool...
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