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Article Excerpt
Policies and Definitions
The Restaurant Guide is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising of other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list. The reviewers' identity is kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. If anyone claiming to be a Texas Monthly restaurant reviewer asks a restaurant for a free meal, the owner should decline and report that person's name to the magazine. Restaurant reviews me updated every three months. Send correspondence to Restaurant Guide, Texas Monthly, Box 1569, Austin 78767.
Star Policy, Credit Cards, and Price Scale
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
AE: American Express, DC: Diners Club and Carte Blanche. DS: Discover MC: MasterCard V: Visa Cr: All major credit cards accepted. No Cr: No credit cards accepted.
Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes dessert, and beverage), not including wine, cocktails, tax and up. Inexpensive: less than $10. Moderate: $10-$25. Expensive: $25-$40. Very expensive: more than $40.
Wheelchair Accessibility
(W) The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
(W+) The dining area and all major facilities are accessible.
(W) Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
(No symbol) This place is not accessible.
Austin
[UPDATE] Alborz Persian Cuisine 3300 W Anderson Ln (512-420-2222) You'll find a variety of kebabs and four hearty stews to chose from (try the khoresh gheymeh a seductive blend of sauteed beef and yellow split peas in a tomato-saffron sauce), but we were most entranced by the appetizers: garlicky hummus, cheese and fresh herbs, tangy baked eggplant topped with yogurt and mint--together they're a nicely balanced landscape of robust flavors Service is friendly and informed and provides just the right amount of attention Beer & wine Open Sun-Thur 11:30 9:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-10 Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Artz Rib House 2330 S. Lamar Blvd (512 442-8283). Artz isn't fancy--there's no ATM inside--but it does serve good 'cue. The Country Pork Ribs--a platter of three big tasty ribs with slaw, beans and potato salad is reason enough to eat here. We like the sausage too. Beer & wine Open Sun noon-9, Mon-Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Cafe at the Four Seasons 98 San Jacinto (512-685-8300). Tucked beneath the sea and-be-seen lobby bar, the Cafe showcases an international approach to Texas classics: quail breast is smoked over green tea, while a tender beef tenderloin gets a bubbling crust of Manchego. Bar (light fare 2-6) Breakfast Sun 7-10:30 Mon-Fri 6:30-11, Sat 7-11:30 Lunch Mon-Sat 11-2. Dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri& Sat 6-11. Sat brunch 11:30-2 Sun brunch 10:30-2. Very expensive Cr. (W+)
Cafe Caprice 900 W. 10th (512-477-5576). What a welcome addition to an underrepresented niche in Austin: the simple but stylish American bistro. A coconut-curry soup with chicken and shiitakes was phenomenal. And a spiced roast-duckling breast-beautiful rosy slices of duck with a Morello cherry-citrus sauce--was quintessential French-leaning Dish. Beer & wine. Dinner Sun & Tue-Sat 6-10. Closed Mon. Expensive. AE, DS, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Chez Nous 510 Neches (512-473-2413). Tired of the hamburgers and sandwiches rampant around Sixth Street, we hit this downtown French bistro for lunch. A bowl of savory potato-and look soup and a special of melt-in-your-mouth trout meuniere were just what we needed to recharge our batteries The crepes de sarrasin--made el buckwheat flour and filled with ham, Swiss, and bechamel sauce--didn't have quite the same effect. Lace curtains and fresh flowers spiff up the worn decor Beer & wine. Lunch Tue-Fri 1:45-2. Dinner Sun & Tue-Sat 6-10:30 Closed Mon Moderate to expensive Cr.
Driskill Grill 604 Brazos (512 391 7162). The opulent dining room (rich fabrics, china laden tables) was a nice reprieve from minimalist decors of late We were enchanted with the food too. The moist striped black sea bass with crab chowder was fantastic, and our starter of grilled quail with a coriander-orange-curd sauce was even better. Bar Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10 Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive to very expensive (chef's tasting menus $125 & $165). Cr. (W+)
El Chile Cafe y Cantina 1809 Manor Rd (512-457-9900). Clean lines, candlelit tables, and pastel hues provide on inviting backdrop for well-prepared Mexican dishes Our hearty tortilla soup was a full-of-flavor prelude to our flautas (moist chicken rolled in a crispy shell topped with lettuce, tomatoes, and a zig-zag of crema fresca) Bar Open Tue-Sat 11-10. Closed Sun & Mon. Moderate. AE, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Fonda San Miguel 2330 W. North Loop Blvd (512-459-4121). Few restaurants in Mexico look more like a hacienda than Fonda San Miguel, and few serve more consistently pleasing food. Start with the creamy corn chowder or a salad of tartly marinated nopalitos. Almost any diet will allow you to have the fine pescado tikin xik, an achiote-rubbed fish filet garnished with pickled-red-onion slices and sided by an exceptionally tasty tomato-based sauce Even the rice and refried black beans are above average at this charming place. Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri-Sat 5-10:30, Sun brunch 11-2. Upper moderate to expensive. DC, DS, MC, V. (W+)
Granite Cafe 2905 San Gabriel (512-472-6483). The casually stylish restaurant specializes in Southwestern bistro food--at least that's what were calling it. Delicious pork tenderloin came atop mashed cascabel sweet potatoes and our friend raved abut has smoked trout wrapped in bacon. Bar. Open Sun 11-3 & 5:30-9, Mon-Thur 11-9:30, Fri 11-10:30, Sat 5:30-10:30. Sun brunch 11-3. Moderate to expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] * Hudson's on the Bend 3509 Ranch Rd 620N, 1 1/2 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Just when you thought Hudson's couldn't push the exotic game envelope any further chef-owner Jeff Blank adds chicken-fried penguin to has already arresting bill of fare. We're kidding, of course--and so was the menu--but that's one thing we like about this place: It's fun. From boldly inventive dishes (like the legendary rattlesnake cakes and the adventuresome wild boar schnitzel with apple cider-brandy sauce), to the cozy, bungalowlike building, evenings at Hudson's are a treat. Ours would have been perfect had the service not been off its mark. Bar. Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended; a must weekends Expensive to very expensive. Cr. (W+)
[UPDATE] Jean-Luc's Bistro 705 Colorado (512-494-0033) Uninspired decor notwithstanding, the food at this downtown spot is dazzling: exquisite potato gnocchi, refreshingly simple roasted cod with crispy squid and steamed clams in a tarragon broth, a gloriously rich beef filet in a Shiraz reduction, a chilled plum soup palate cleanser (!) Chef Shawn Cirkiel's exacting preparation and his embrace of high-quality seasonal ingredients result in some of the most imaginative (and exuberantly flavorful) cooking in the city. Bar. Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11 Closed Sun. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
** Jeffrey's 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). At Jeffrey's, you expect--and usually get--the sun and the moon. Anything leas can let you down. Pink snapper came on delicate ribbons of homemade linguine, but its scant champagne sauce was so subtle it barely made an impact. Earthy forest mushrooms and tan chevre boosted the flavor of acceptable but hardly cloudlike potato gnocchi. Smart decor, intelligent service. Bar. Dinner Sun 6-9:30, Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30. Reservations recommended Expansive to very expansive (tasting menus $38 & $60). Cr. (W) With assistance.
Mikado 9033 Research Blvd (512-833-8188) With its gracious service and sultry pop music, this warmly understated, copper-and-honey-toned spot is a refuge from the neon and traffic of Hwy 183. Of the robata section of the ambitious menu, you can't miss with the hamachi kama, yellowtail collar grilled with salt, pepper, and lemon Beer, wine & sake. Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Moderate. AE DC, MC, V. (W+)
Starlite 624 W. 34th (512-374-9012) Are things at trendy Starlite not so bright? The restaurant, with stripped wood walls and funky lighting, now serves dinner just four days a week, and the service is lacking Paradoxically, the food is still as wonderful as we remembered: Roasted duck was succulent, but our companion's smoky chilean sea bass on creamy risotto was the dish that carried the day. Stay tuned. Bar. Open Sun 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Wed-Sat 6-11. Closed Mon & Tue Expensive AE, MC, V. (W+)
[UPDATE] Sullivan's 300 Colorado (512-495-6504). If this steakhouse is any indicator of the economy, we'd soy things are bullish On a recent weeknight, almost every table in the posh dining room--and the hopping bar--was taken. Truth be told, our meal wasn't nearly as satisfying as the people-watching. Granted, the red sauce with our shrimp cocktail had an impressive bite and the shellfish were large, but our medium rare New York strip lacked flavor. The pork chops were good; we nibbled as close to the bone as we could For dessert, we polished off our bottle of nice Merlot. Bar. Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner Sun 5-10, Mon-Fri 5:30-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Expensive. Cr. (W+)
34th Street Cafe 1005 W 341h (512-371-3400). Satisfaction seems inevitable at this brightly colored neighborhood spot, especially since the menu is of the something-for-everyone sort. Craving steak and potatoes? A nightly special was a tender ribeye with cheddar-infused mashed potatoes. Can't resist Mexican? Then try the hit of our evening: chicken-and-green-chile enchiladas smothered in a rich chevre sauce. Beer & wine. Open Mon-Fri 11-9:30, Sat 11-4 & 6-9:30. Closed Sun. Moderate Cr (W+)
Uchi 801 S. Lamar (512-916-4808) Even the retro/exotic design and fashionable clientele will not distract you from the sushi bar wizards. Watch them construct edible miracles like sawagani--tiny coral hued freshwater crabs fried and dusted with sea salt--or the Pacific Northwest albacore with mango, orange bell pepper, and mint. Beer, wine & sake. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive AE, MC, V. (W+)
Beaumont--Port Arthur
[UPDATE] Brad's Place 2306 Hazel, Beaumont (409-839-8100). Typically, if a restaurant required that you seat yourself, bring your own libations, and order at a counter from a menu that's scribbled across a Dry-Erase board and suspended from the ceiling, you wouldn't' expect high priced, upscale entrees. Yet that's what you'll find at this bohemian favorite in Old Town and the disparity works. Our filet Gorgonzola, tender beef wrapped--yes, wrapped--around rich cheese, was worth every penny, as was Brad's burger, a steal at $6.50 BYOB. Open Mon & Tue 11-2, Wed-Fri 11-2 & 5-9, Sat 11-9. Closed Sun. Moderate to expensive. AE, DS. MC, V. (W+)
Don's 2290 1-10S, Beaumont (409-842-0686). Don's quality and pleasant atmosphere are a treat Spicy chicken and sausage gumbo kicked off our recent visit, while one of Don's stuffed specialties worked for the main affair: crispy, zesty crab patties. Bar. Open Sun & Mon 11-9, Tue-Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Rio Ritas 230 Crockett, Beaumont (409-833-0759) Crockett Street has added a classy Tex-Mex restaurant Pollo Mexico--grilled chicken breast in poblano cream sauce sided by rice and frijoles a la charra--was the evening's best bet. The upstairs balcony is perfect for warm weather dining. Open Sun-Tue 11-9, Wed & Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Sun brunch 11-2. Moderate. DS, MC, V. (W+)
Texas Star Cafe 205 U.S. Hwy 69N, Colmesneil (409-837-4444). Every town needs a country style place for locals to gather and gossip Colmesneil has the quaint TSC. The burgers are juicy, the meat is cut on the premises, the peach cobbler is out of this world, and the servers could not be more accommodating. Bar. Open Sun 7-9, Mon-Thur 10-9, Fri 10-10, Sat 7-10 Inexpensive DS, MC, V. (W+)
Tuffy's Eatery 11261 Texas Hwy 12, Mauriceville (409-745-3170). Antique furniture lends a from-another-era charm to this country-cajun spot. Mish Mash Chopped Steak, grilled sirloin lopped with melted cheddar and diced tomatoes, onions, and green and red peppers, was full of flavor, white the chicken-fried steak was fried to crisp, golden perfection. Open Sun 11-8, Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10. Moderate. Cr. (W+)
Corpus Christi
Beamer's Moore Plaza, 5425 S. Padre Island Dr (361-992-1291). At family-friendly Beamer's, you'll find tasty fare ranging from pizza to nachos Our favorites include the thick milk shakes and the bean burger--a beef patty topped with cheddar cheese, crushed com chips, refried beans, and salsa. Beer & wine Open Sun-Thur 11-10 Fri & Sat 11-11. Moderate. AE, DS, MC, V. (W)
Crystal's 4119 S. Staples (361-857-8081). At Crystal's, kids can watch the electric train as it winds around the ceiling-high track while waiting for good eats like burgers and sandwiches. The potato skins are done right here, and we also like the spinach quiche and the accompanying tossed salad in a fried tortilla shell. Bar. Open Sun-Thur 11-9:30, Fri & Sat 11-10:30. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Howard's Bar-B-Q 1002 Antelope (361-882-1200). When you are experiencing serious barbecue cravings, head for the barn-red building, where tender beef brisket, smoked sausage, and sliced turkey are served cafeteria-style Of the usual side offerings, you won't want to pass on the tasty coleslaw, which is mixed with chunks of tart green apple. Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3 Closed Sat & Sun. Moderate. Cr. (W)
Republic of Texas 20th floor, Omni Corpus Christi Hotel, 900 N. Shoreline Dr (361-886-3515) The view? A 10. The food. Pretty close. The thick 16-ounce New York strip was the star of our meal--tender and flavorful. The accompanying steamed asparagus spears in a creamy hollandaise sauce rated high too. Ditto the chocolate coated chocolate cake. Bar. Dinner Sun 5:30-9, Mon-Sat 5:30-10. Expensive. Cr. (W)
Thai Cottage 5830 McArdle Rd (361-993-0777). We fell in love with a tasty yellow curry on a recent visit to this tiny restaurant with peach-and-lime-colored walls. A companion's Princess Chicken--sauteed with mushroom, onion, and zucchini--was a trifle bland. Expect a wait at lunch, Beer & wine. Lunch Mon-Sat 11-3. Dinner Mon-Thur 5-9:30, Fri & Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. Moderate. Cr.
SMALL, NEW, OR OFFBEAT
Small Planet Delicatessen and Bakery 3824 S. Alameda (361 855-1892). This airy, art-filled deli is known for fresh salads and sandwiches, not to mention its frothy cappuccino. On a recent visit, we loved the creamy shrimp-and-roasted-corn bisque, which nicely balanced the sweet of the corn with a hint of cayenne. The Armenian gyro--sliced beef and lamb and chopped...
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