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Love me tender; FOOD; FROM NIGEL'S VEG PATCH; Few things are lovelier in the allotment than a pumpkin on a damp November dawn. Nor sweeter in the pot when it comes to eating. So says Nigel Slater.

Article Excerpt
Byline: Nigel Slater

A PUMPKIN PANGRATTATO WITH ROSEMARY AND ORANGE

Marrying textures and tastes to one another is one of the most satisfying pleasures of cooking: the soft with the crisp, the steamily hot with the icily cold, the spicy with the mint cool. I somehow had a feeling that crisp crumbs might work well with the soft, collapsing flesh of a squash. They do, but are more interesting when the crumbs are not packed on top like a crumble but lightly scattered over and between the pieces of pumpkin.

ENOUGH FOR 4 AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT OR 2 AS A PRINCIPAL DISH

pumpkin or butternut squash - 1kg garlic - 3 cloves olive oil - 5 tablespoons, plus a tad more a mild red chilli finely chopped rosemary leaves - a tablespoon the zest of half an orange roughly chopped parsley leaves - a handful fresh white breadcrumbs - 4 handfuls butter - a thick slice (about 40g) .

Set the oven at 180C/gas 4. Peel the pumpkin, discarding the seeds and fibres, and cut the flesh into large, bite-sized pieces. Put the pumpkin into a steamer basket or metal colander and steam over boiling water for 15 to 20 minutes, till tender to the point of a knife.

Peel and finely chop the garlic and...

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