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The fourth dimension; The Marais in the 4eme arrondissement is a chaotic cobbled enclave, worlds away from the chilly boulevards of 19th-century Paris. Gianluca Longo loses himself among the bourgeois bohemians.

Publication: The Evening Standard (London, England)
Publication Date: 21-AUG-09
Format: Online
Delivery: Immediate Online Access
Full Article Title: The fourth dimension; The Marais in the 4eme arrondissement is a chaotic cobbled enclave, worlds away from the chilly boulevards of 19th-century Paris. Gianluca Longo loses himself among the bourgeois bohemians.(Features)

Article Excerpt
Byline: Gianluca Longo;sHettie Harvey

I am often in Paris, and I consider myself a great connoisseur of La Ville-Lumiere: its bridges, its museums, where to find the best hot chocolate, where to stand on Le Trocadero at sunset to best admire the Eiffel Tower, and so on. But a few weeks ago I decided to accept an invitation from my Parisian friend Billal to spend a few days in the Marais, an area of the city that (amazingly) I hardly knew.

The charming and lively quartier of the Marais swings around the streets of the 3eme and 4eme arrondissements, and its core is the beautiful Place des Vosges. At Billal's suggestion, I checked into the lovely Hotel Pavillon de la Reine, the chicest spot to discover a whole new Paris. The secluded, almost hidden, entrance is a little door under the covered galleries that characterise the Place des Vosges. The square (a perfect 140m x 140m, dated 1610) was a royal haunt for centuries. I loved the red bricks with stone quoins over vaulted arcades.

My tour of the Marais started in rue Vieille du Temple. I was intrigued by the children's shop BonTon, where I bought a present for my goddaughter, and the very French APC store, with its cool T-shirts, scented candles and great selection of music. French Trotters is a little fashion boutique close by that sells lots of Swedish brands, including Acne which does great jeans.

After the shopping came the art. We stopped by the gallery of Yvon Lambert, a big name in the Parisian contemporary art scene, at 108 rue Vieille du Temple: permanent collections and temporary shows alternate all year - we saw New York installation artist Robert Barry. Already hungry, we stopped for a fresh juice and a slice of carrot cake at the Rose Bakery on rue Debelleyme, an organic cafe-restaurant-canteen. Full of icing, we crossed the road for...

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