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Article Excerpt
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
There is a place in British Columbia where a landscape of caves and semiarid wilderness harkens back to another era. Eagles hunt rattle snakes here, and horses gallop free amid sage, cactus, and dunes, as if in a scene from the Wild West. The wind blows across prairies that stretch out alongside intricate labyrinths of canyons, and the rocky terrain embraces a winding chain of glacial lakes--oblong fresh-water seas that reflect the oasis of their fertile banks like mirages.
"I haven't seen my horse for two months," murmurs our guide, Robert Stelkia, an indigenous native of Okanagan Valley. "He lives free in the desert." As Rob speaks, his dog "Pop" is sliding under a natural stone roof amid the rocky scenery. We are out looking for pictographs near Lake Osoyoos. But the paw prints on the sandy soil under the massive stone distract both of us: "This could easily be a mountain lion den during this time of year," Rob tells me, as he urges Pop to follow its trail. "It's a small cat, but we have to find my horse; he might be spooked by it. When he was born, he was attacked by a fox; that's why I call him Fox."
The dignified and genuine presence of this man, with his faithful cattle dog who appears and disappears blending into the rocky cave-filled landscape, opens a window on a world that...
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