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Article Excerpt
POLICIES AND DEFINITIONS
The Filter: Dining is a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a listing. Reviews are written by resident critics in the cities that we list and are updated every three months. The reviewers' identities are kept anonymous to ensure that they receive no special treatment. Send correspondence to foodeditor@texasmonthly.com or TEXAS MONTHLY The Filter: Dining Box 1569, Austin, Texas 78767.
STAR POLICY, CREDIT CARDS, AND PRICE SCALE
*** Three stars designate a superlative restaurant.
** Two stars designate an excellent restaurant.
* One star designates an extremely good restaurant.
All listed restaurants accept major credit cards unless otherwise noted. Prices represent a typical meal for one (entree, side dishes, dessert, and beverage), not including beer, wine, cocktails, tax, and tip.
$ Less than $12
$$ $12-$30
$$$ $31-$45
$$$$ More than $45
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBILITY KEY
[W] The dining area is accessible to wheelchairs: The main entrance is at least 32 inches wide and there are no steps; restrooms, however, are not accessible.
[W+] The dining area and restrooms are accessible.
[W] Call ahead. With advance notice, the restaurant will accommodate wheelchairs.
No symbol: This place is not accessible.
Amarrillo
CRUSH WINE BAR & DELI
Housed in a newly renovated downtown building, this chic place offers empanadas and tapas in the evening and delicious salads and sandwiches during the day. We loved the crepe with roasted chicken, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and Gruyere and the smoked-salmon sandwich served on herb flatbread with cream cheese, spinach, tomato, and balsamic. Reserve the chocolate souffle cake when you place your order. Beer & wine. 701 S. Polk (805-418-2011). Open Mon-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-midnight. Closed Sun. $-$$ [W+]
LUIGI'S PIZZERIA
Simple and affordable are the buzz words at this new Mediterranean spot. Stop in and watch the kitchen crank out salads, pizzas (the Greek pizza is superb, with spinach, tomatoes, mushrooms, and black olives), and pastas served with piping-hot garlic bread. For a quick lunch to go, try the gyro stuffed with lamb and tzatziki sauce. 2648 SW 34th Ave (806-331-6508). Open Tue-Thur 10:30-9, Fri & Sat 10:30-20, Sun 11:30-7. Closed Mort. $-$$ [W+]
NU-CASTLE DINER
[Update] If you need a reminder of what's great about good old American cooking, stop in at this Amarillo institution. For breakfast, be sure to order a homemade cinnamon roll to go with your Western omelet, made with three eggs plus ham, bell pepper, onion, and cheese. For lunch (particularly on a blustery day) have the potato soup and a grilled chicken sandwich. The chicken-fried steak is also excellent. Go early so you can have your choice of the delectable pies; the chocolate pecan is amazing. 518 E. 10th (806-371-8540). Open Mon-Fri 6:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Closed Sat & Sun. $ [W]
Austin
THE CARILLON
It may feel like a vast, albeit attractive, corporate dining room (and it kind of is), but the food is far, far better than you might expect. Why? Josh Watkins, formerly of the Driskill Hotel, is the executive chef. Crab cakes with a roasted-corn-and-tomato salsa and a dollop of avocado mousse were delicious even though not pure lump meat. Berkshire pork tenderloin, bursting with flavor, came with cannellini beans and a topping of smoked tomatoes. The Apple Blossom, a rustic tart, had a tender, buttery crust and a pretty garnish of candied pecans. Bar. AT&T Executive Education & Conference Center, hotel side, 1900 University Ave, parking garage on 20th (512-404-3655). Breakfast 7 days 7-10. Dinner Tue-Sat 5:30-10. (Lunch open only to UT faculty and staff and members of the Campus Club.) $$-$$$ [W+]
CISSI'S MARKET
Once just a cute neighborhood market with scattered seating for food from the dell, Cissi's has revamped its entrance area into a swanky wine bar serving a limited menu of nouveau bistro fare. Sitting at the window beneath the twinkling lights wrapping the mammoth oak tree outside, we started with wafer-thin waffle-cut potato chips dusted with savory Gruyere shavings. A grilled date wrapped in crispy smoked bacon made a perfect sweet-salty snack. Pork rillettes served with pickled quail eggs and warm fresh bread made us happy, but it was the sugary doughnut served with salty toffee that nearly got a standing ovation. Beer & wine. 1400 S. Congress Ave (512-225-0521). Market opens at 8 a.m. Deli menu available Tue-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 11-11; wine bar menu available after 5. Closed Mon. $-$$ [W+]
COOKIE LOUNGE
Can a cookie be better than you-know-what? You'll have to decide for yourself. At this new retro spot west of the UT campus, patrons relax on mod sectional couches (or text or surf--there's free Wi-Fi) while waiting for their made-to-order cookies. Choose from six kinds of dough (we prefer Dottie's Oatmeal and Stacey's Super Sweet) and more than 30 mix-ins (the dark chocolate melts in your mouth). Be indulgent and wash it down with a milk shake (the vanilla sent us to sugar ecstasy). No regrets. Promise. The Quarters, 2222 Rio Grande (512-478-2253). Open Thur-Sat 11-2:30 a.m. Closed Sun-Wed. $ [W+]
CORAZON AT CASTLE HILL
The "heart" of the beloved old West Austin Castle Hill restaurant has recently returned in the form of Corazon at Castle Hill. The new eatery embraces many of its predecessor's original interior Mexican recipes, as well as a few signature dishes brought back by popular demand, such as the spicy "hacked" chicken salad. Though an arrachera plate sounded delicious (served with a panela cheese enchilada, black beans, and rice), the marinated hanger steak was tough and gristly. Chicken mole enchiladas assuaged our disappointment. We could have drunk the Oaxacan red sauce (a blend of ancho and guajillo chiles and blackened tomatoes) by the cupful. Bar. 1101 W. 5th (512-476-0728). Open Mon-Sat 11-10 (may close early). Closed Sun. $$-$$$ [W]
COVER 3
[New] We're big fans of this stylish new sports bar. Skeptical about eating in such a place? We were too, but trust us. The open room feels like a modern lounge, with exposed brick walls adorned with flat-screen TVs. The tables were abuzz as women sipped wine and chatted and guys reacted to plays and scores. On this visit, we passed on our previous lave (beef tenderloin sliders) and opted for a new dish, the chilled shrimp and crab tower; the avocado proved to be the perfect backdrop to the somewhat spicy sauces. We split the rest: a Cover 3 salad (mixed greens tossed with candied walnuts, sliced Fuji apples, crumbled goat cheese, and raspberry-Dijon viniagrette) and a tender 22-ounce bone-in ribeye--the latter a tad pricey, but a winner nonetheless. Bar. 2700 W. Anderson Ln (512-374-1121). Open Mon-Fri 11-11, Sat 11-midnight, Sun 11-10. $$-$$$ [W+]
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
[Update] Even after all these years, we're still crazy about the food at Jeff Blank's countryside destination. Two plump scallops wrapped in venison prosciutto came smokin' on a cedar plank. Given that Valentine's was just around the corner, we decided to regard another appetizer--smoked duck "diablos," skewered morsels of duck breast, fig, and jalapeno--as kisses from chef Jeff; the accompanying red chile dipping sauce made them even sweeter. Rosy slices of elk back strap (also smoked; they're big on that here) proved addictively salty, a problem that was countered by the souffle-like corn pudding on the plate. The same fate befell the chicken-fried antelope, necessitating several refills of water. Dazzling service and dozens of fresh apples dangling from the ceilings enhanced the fairy tale cottage setting. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1359). Dinner Sun-Thur 6-9, Fri & Sat 5:30-10. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ [W+]
** JEFFREY'S
Conserving money these days? Try the happy-hour menu in the bar, offering no-big-deal noshes like mini lamb burgers on brioche or duck pate with a spicy mustard marmalade. Actually, you can get the regular menu too, and all the desserts. We sat at the polished-black-granite bar as a twinkling crystal light multiplied itself in three mirrors and tables of convivial diners murmured around us. The smoked-salmon salad was excellent, but the pear fritters in rosemary honey proved mundane (the price was certainly right, though; our waiter comped the dessert after the kitchen dawdled in sending it out). Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30. (Bar menu Sun-Fri 5-7, Sat 9-10.) Dinner reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $85 without wine) [W+]
KENOBI
Sleek Oriental design greets patrons at the entrance of this Arboretum sushi haunt. Kenobi's menu reflects the latest in (often costly) Asian food trends: Kobe beef cooked on a tableside hibachi and wild specialty rolls, to name two. The latter can get a bit ornate; the Lickety Split contains eleven ingredients, including at least four kinds of raw fish. Believers in "less is more" should look elsewhere. Even so, in some instances, such as a sesame scallop appetizer in which the shellfish has been tempura-battered and pan-sauteed with Japanese spices, the complexity works. Kenobi earns points for adventurous entrees as well--shaved ribeye steak wrapped around avocado and Japanese yams, anyone? Bar. Arboretum shopping center, 10000 Research Blvd (512-241-0119). Open Mon 11-10, Tue-Thur 11-11, Fri 11-midnight, Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon- 10. $$$ [W+]
MARIA MARIA
Carlos "Black Magic Woman" Santana, the musician-turned-Latin-style-arbiter, is behind this chain of well-heeled restaurants. The stars of our spread were the duck tacos (three delicate rolls of shredded meat topped with a creamy tomato-habanero sauce). Said spread also included a gimmicky, salty ceviche served in half a coconut and an agreeable chopped salad full of roasted corn and avocado. We added a dash of the house-made pineapple salsa to the crab-and-shrimp enchiladas suizas and they almost matched the colorful decor. (See if you can spot the influence of consulting New York chef Roberto Santibanez, who once headed up Austin's Fonda San Miguel.) Time your visit during one of Santana's monthly trips and it might be magic indeed. Bar. 415 Colorado (512-687-6800). Open Sun-Wed 4-10, Thur-Sat noon-10. $$-$$$ [W+]
OLIVIA
In its few short months, this hip new food haunt has attracted quite a following. Chef James Holmes offers an ever-changing menu of French- and Italian-inspired delights, many made with locally grown ingredients. Rich, velvety tagliatelle slathered in beef ragu was dreamy, as was the classic bistro-style roasted chicken with frighteningly addictive potato crisps. On the other hand, on two visits, the molasses-glazed pork chop was dry and tough, and so was the lamb's tongue appetizer that we've heard so much about. The beef carpaccio starter proved the star of our most recent visit, along with a dessert, the not-too-sweet apple Basque cake. Bar. 2043 S. Lamar (512-804-2700). Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5:30-9. Brunch Sun 10:30-2:30. $$$ [W+]
PAGGI HOUSE
Old meets new in this recently renovated 1840's Austin landmark. Enjoy striking skyline views from Paggi's chic new "outdoor lounge" while sipping a glass of bubbly from the lengthy wine list. Then move to the dining room of the cozy building and savor a knockout cheese plate, loaded with bite-size combinations (including Farmhouse Stilton), plus candied pecans and honey. While several of the entrees need tweaking, you won't go wrong with the mero sea bass in a miso-lemongrass broth. Skip the German chocolate tartlets (think Girl Scout Samoas at about ten times the price) and go for the apple clafoutis gilded with a sumptuous toffee creme anglaise. Bar. 200 Lee Barton Dr (512-473-3700). Dinner Tue-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. Closed Sun & Mon. $$$-$$$$ [W+]
PARKSIDE
[Update] Yes, it's a strange location for a cutting-edge restaurant, right in the middle of the hurly-burly of Sixth Street, but it's civilized inside, if extremely minimalist. The raw bar offers a plethora of fresh oysters from local and non-Gulf waters, as well as fish appetizers tricked out in imaginative ways (the fluke with toasted almonds and a lemon zest is fantastic). Those who prefer that their seafood has spent some time near a heat source should be delighted with the flounder in brown butter with currants and capers or the heavenly scallops with bits of orange and wild mushrooms (the 'shrooms change periodically--we had hen of the woods). Or skip the fish and placate your inner caveman with an order of the gargantuan marrow bones with a wee herb salad alongside. Dessert definitely should be the espresso fudge brownie, presented in a tiny skillet with a little hazelnut malt to accompany it. Bar. 301 E. 6th (512-474-9898). Dinner Sun-Wed 5-midnight, Thur-Sat 5-2 a.m. $$-$$$ [W+] Only the first floor.
PERRY'S STEAKHOUSE & GRILLE
Over-the-top exuberance smacks you right between the eyes at this luxe new downtown steakhouse, the first Austin outpost of a Houston-based group. Tucked into the lovely historic Norwood tower, Perry's embraces the "more is more" design mantra with a wall of wine spanning two floors. The food keeps pace. The Australian lobster tail tempura arrives with both aioli and melted butter to fatten it up. Double-cut lamb chops, seared to a crisp outside yet rare inside, come two to an entree, while potatoes lyonnaise are roasted in bacon fat. We felt the prime ribeye, gilded with an emphatically seasoned compound butter, actually needed a make-under to let the pure quality of the steak shine through. Were you hoping asparagus might be a light side dish? Too bad. It's deep-fried and topped with colossal lumps of crabmeat. Bar. 114 W. 7th (512-474-6300). Dinner Mon-Thur 4-10, Fri & Sat 4-11. Closed Sun. $$$-$$$$ [W+]
TAVERNA
Sometimes you don't want a cutting-edge meal. Sometimes all you want is a pleasant restaurant serving good, reasonably priced food in a fun part of town. Lunch or dinner, Italian-inflected Taverna (based in Dallas) fills the bill. The trattoria look is convincing, and there's a small enclosed sidewalk for cozy alfresco dining in the Second Street district. Carpaccio had all the requisite elements: thin-sliced raw beef, capers, shaved Parmesan, and Taverna's own twists, pine nuts and truffle oil. Yum. Mussels were superb in a garlic-and-white-wine broth. And the ultrarich porcini mushroom lasagne, with Parmesan and two sauces (bolognese and bechamel), had us at "Buongiorno." Bar. 258 W. 2nd (512-477-1001). Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat & Sun 9-10. $-$$ [W+]
TEXAS FRENCH BREAD
Several years ago, Murph and Ben Wilcott took over the venerable Austin bakeries founded by their mother, Judy. Now they are cooking up a storm, and it's not just breads and pastries. Three nights a week they serve up a quite-casual dinner at the charming flagship location. Maman should be proud. A panade of caramelized onion, chard, and tomato (imagine a savory, onion-soupy bread pudding) seemed fresh from a French country kitchen. Homemade lamb sausage, kefta-style, came with both harissa and tzatziki sauce. But what stole our heart was a magical mac-and-cheese side dish with cavatappi (spiral pasta), strips of smoky bacon, and big quarters of picholine olives. Mon dieu. An open apple tart with a dollop of cream brought us back to the bakery's soul. Incidentally, a lot of the food is locally source& BYOB. 2900 Rio Grande (512-499-0544). Bakery open Mon-Fri 7-5, Sat & Sun 7-5. Dinner served Thur-Sat 6-10. $-$$ [W]
** UCHI
[Update] Newcomers to this bastion of cutting-edge sushi should check their expectations for spicy tuna rolls at the door. Why waste the space when you can expand your palate with the subtly layered flavors of the toro nuta--bluefin tuna with dried cranberry and Marcona almonds--or a recent mind-blowing special of Hawaiian wahoo served with pickled rhubarb shavings, a piquant poblano sauce, and basil leaves. Though not as visually dynamic as other menu items, diver scallops with smoked greens and grilled corn had excellent flavor and texture. (Tell us again: What's a California roll?) The wild crimson floral wallpaper in the main dining room sets off the sedate, taupe-colored accents of the sushi bar area. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations recommended, taken until 7. $$-$$$ [W+]
* VESPAIO
We snagged two spots at the bar (we swear we didn't hover) and made it an evening, and a fine one it was, too. As we sipped a glass of prosecco, the beautiful people crowded in to fuel themselves for an adventurous Friday night in SoCo. A shared Caesar salad (with anchovy) held us until our entrees arrived. The chicken cacciatore proved a success, but we gave top billing to the risotto with pan-seared scallops and speck...
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