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Article Excerpt
Amarillo
BLUE FRONT CAFE
Tucked in the corner of a parking lot off Route 66 is a downtown diner where most customers are on a first-name basis with the staff. For early eaters, the French toast-sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with a side of crisp bacon and a steaming cup of coffee--is a good way to start the day Stop in around lunchtime and you might be lucky enough to get the enchilada platter or the homemade chicken and rice soup, with tender meat, fresh carrots, and celery, all seasoned to perfection 807 SW 6th Ave (806 372-0659.). Open Mon Fn 6-3 Eat 6-2, Sun 7-2. $ (W+)
575 PIZZERIA
New name, same great restaurant The former Basil Doe's is now 575 Pizzeria, a self-proclaimed "hot spot for pints and pies" And it's not just about the pizza Munch on the "brick fired bread" with olive tapenade or the Greek salad, full of olives and artichoke hearts The Quattro is a white pie with mozzarella, Parmesan, feta, and goat cheese As for red pies, we like the Squillace: pepperoni, sausage, roasted red peppers, and portobellos Don't leave without having the cherry bread pudding, made with a croissant and topped with amaretto sauce. Beer & wine. 2803 Civic Circle (806-331 3627) Open Tue Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun & Mon. $$ (W+)
HOFFBRAU STEAKS
(Update)
No matter if you meet friends for lunch or take a group to dinner, you can count on an excellent meal at this casual family-owned spot Begin with the brau chips, crispy golden-brown potatoes with ranch dressing Then move on to the chopped steak, a ribeye, or the pepper-crusted sirloin--all will be cooked to your liking. You can still order the classic Hoffbrau house salad with vinaigrette and green olives "upon request" or a big bowl of greens, egg, bacon, and cheese topped with your choice of top sirloin or chicken The peach cobbler is the best Bar 7203 1-40W (806-358-6595.) Open Sun-Wed 11-9, Thur-Sat 11-10. $$ (W+)
Austin
ASTI
Having been relegated to the back of the long, narrow dining room on the past three or four visits, we were thrilled to be seated front and center--all the better to see the action in the open kitchen House made mozzarella and roasted peppers (simple goodness), along with mixed greens tossed with bits of Bartlett pear and a shallot dressing, made for a good beginning Our entree followed suit. The pan-seared scallops with tomato braised pancetta, ceci beans, and basil pesto proved to be a smart combination of flavors and textures. Beer & wine 408 E. 43rd (512-451 1218). Open Mon- Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
BUENOS AIRES CAFE EAST
(New)
Fueled by popular demand, Buenos Aires Care--Austin's first Argentine eatery--has opened a second location, on the city's east side. Spacious and inviting, the haunt serves up popular Argentine fare, including authentic Buenos Aires empanadas Fresh and flaky, the pastries come with various fillings, including a don't miss came picante with scallions, raisins, and green olives and a vegetarian's dream packed with spinach, ricotta, and Parmesan. Entrees can be spotty; steer clear of the bland gnocchi and head straight for the pastel de papas, Argentina's answer to shepherd's pie. Vegetable lovers will enjoy the handmade herbed crepes (a.k.a. canelones caseros) filled with Parmesan and a portobello--and eggplant blend Finish with a scrumptious dessert--cuatro leches cake, panqueques (dessert crepes), or flan de Buenos Aires. These are the real stars of the South American show. Beer & wine 1201 E. 6th (512-382-1189) Open Mon-Thur 9-9:30, Fri & Sat 9-10. Closed Sun $$ (W+)
EL SOL Y LA LUNA
Fans of the intrepid Nilda de la Llata are now trekking over to Sixth Street for breakfasts of migas and piping-hot tortillas. Then they're showing up again at happy hour for a Paloma Patron cocktail: tequila and pineapple juice. After one or two of those, they're likely to be staying for dinner, sampling an array of interior Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes. We liked the smoky enchiladas en mole but found the shrimp a la diabla sorely lacking in spirit (read: bland). Even so, we got to the bottom of a bowlful of sopaipillas topped with whipped cream and honey. With its full range of enticements, this local favorite is a welcome addition to downtown. Bar. 600 E. 6th (512-444-7770) Open Tue- Thur 7 a.m.-11 p.m, Fri & Sat 7-2 a.m., Sun 9-4. Closed Mon. $ (W+)
FINN & PORTER
Though best known for its steaks, Finn & Porter--the Hilton's recently remodeled upscale restaurant--also offers an extensive sushi menu. A plate of complimentary edamame (here served cold) is a pleasant way to start your meal, as is the Chuka salad, a tangle of green seaweed served over ponzu-marinated sliced cucumber. Standout sashimi includes the house smoked escolar, so buttery it all but melts on your tongue. Overall, we found the rolled sushi a little fussy, though; the Finn Roll was a smorgasbord all by itself of spicy assorted fish, avocado, and tempura flakes on the inside, with thin-sliced tuna and salmon wrapped around the outside, plus a dusting of chives. Given that fresh fish is flown in three times a week, the sushi chef could make us happy simply by observing the adage "Less is more." Bar Hilton Hotel, 500 E. 4th (512-493-4900). Dinner 7 days 5-11 (bar 2 pm.-1 a.m.) $$-$$$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
When you're craving a filling meal with exquisite flavor, Hudson's delivers Celebrating its twenty-fifth year in the cozy cottage near Lake Travis, the restaurant is offering a supplemental blast-from the-past menu with items from its early years (smaller portions, lower prices). From this special menu, we ordered a spring-greens salad topped with a pecan crusted disk of goat cheese and the wild game enchiladas, which consisted of pheasant, wild boar, and more and were nicely complemented with a nutty, chile based mole and a decidedly tarter one with tomatillo, cilantro, and white chocolate (yes!). In honor of Hudson's fun new South Congress food trailer, the Mighty Cone, we ordered the entree that inspired the idea: hot-and-crunchy trout with mango-jalapeno aioli.
Bar 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mans field Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun &Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur. 6-10, Fri & Sat 530-I0 Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
JEFFREY'S
We feel excited by the breath of fresh air sweeping through this beloved Austin haunt, now under the direction of chef Deegan McClung. Yes, we winced to find the oysters on yuca chips off the menu, but we beamed when even crispier oysters emerged from the kitchen on a creamy bacon sauce. Smoky grilled artichokes, definitely finger food, signaled a new, less-starchy attitude, as did seared skate wing on a pile of clams (though the fish was a little unevenly cooked). Tournedos of beef tenderloin topped with blue cheese will reassure regular customers. For dessert, we had great fun dipping batons of fried pineapple in the cherry wasabi sauce that accompanied our "inverted" Coke float (cola-flavored sorbet topped with creme anglaise) The staff and the low-key setting are as gracious as ever. Bar 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584) Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5.30-10:30, Sun 6-9.30 (bar menu Sun-Fri 5-7, Sat 9-10). Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $93 without wine) (W+)
JEZEBEL
(Update)
Maybe it was the candlelight or the paintings of semi clad women. Or perhaps it was because we started with a glass of ripasso. Whatever the reason, our dinner at this downtown place was just plain sexy. Happily, the mood did not abate with the arrival of the food: Rare elk (crusted with pepper and served on a bed of Puy lentils) was earthy and sensual, while long-braised lamb shank had us fighting for bites. A filet of Chilean sea bass (served with a creamy mango sauce flecked with curry leaves) wore a candy-like crust with a hint of spice; chef-owner Parind Vora does have a sweet tooth. The whole evening, combined with the gracious service, had us dreaming of future rendezvous. Beer & wine. 914 Congress Ave (512-499-3999). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6-midnight Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
LA CONDESA
La Condesa--named for the tony district in Mexico City--has arrived in the Second Street District with all the subtlety of a bottle rocket. It's hard to tell whether more attention is being paid to the cutting-edge design of Michael Hsu and Joel Mozersky, the cutting-edge cocktails designed by famed mixologist Junior Merino, or the cutting-edge food of Texas-born, internationally traveled chef Rene Ortiz. A fair number of words on the menu will be familiar to Tex-Mex-wise Texans--tostadas, taquitos, sopas, and ceviche. But others take you down an exciting, interior-of-Mexico path. Even the ceviches depart from the norm, with the likes of kingfish snuggled up to grilled grapefruit in a fantastic cold, sweet tart lime-cilantro broth. Among the platos fuertes, or entrees, is an excellent duck in a seductive Oaxacan-style black mole. There's much to explore. Bar. 400-A W. 2nd (512-499-0300). Open Mon-Fri 11-3 & 5-11, Sat & Sun 5-11. Brunch Sat & Sun 11-2 Dinner reservations recommended $$-$$$ (W+)
THE MIGHTY CONE
You no longer have to wait a year and then queue up at the annual Austin City Limits Music Festival to score a Hudson's on the Bend crunchy-chicken cone. Now you can get the warm chicken tenders coated with crushed almonds, corn flakes, sesame seeds, and chile flakes, fried, and served in a tortilla with mango jalapeno coleslaw--six days a week at this kitschy white trailer on South Congress Honestly, these cones are more addictive than crack, especially if you've been out in the sun drinking cold beer. The avocado and shrimp versions are almost as tasty as the chicken (the first two are deals at $5.45, the latter will set you back an equally economical $645) 1603 S. Congress Ave, Lot #1 (512-383-9609). Open Sun & Tue- Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-11, Closed Mon, $
NORTH
(Update)
We perched ourselves at the stylish long bar and took in the buzzing scene. When the weather permits (ie., when the temperature is less than hellish), we like the patio, which sports smallish tables that are spaced just far enough apart to afford private conversation (well, semi private). The prosciutto, fig, and goat cheese pizza was a wonderful melding of flavors and textures, but our mixed green salad with corn, tomato, avocado, golden raisins, and almonds was overpowered by too much feta. All was right again with the arrival of angel hair tossed with fresh tomato, basil, and ricotta cheese--delightful. Domain shopping center, 11506 Century Oaks Terrace (512-339-4400). Open Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
ROARING FORK
(New)
Nestled among a grove of live oaks overlooking Quarry Lake, this sleek addition to the North Austin restaurant scene has a more contemporary feel than its Western-themed downtown sibling Taking advantage of an evening breeze, we sat on the patio and noshed on fresh-made guacamole and sipped a cold huckleberry margarita to get in the proper end--ok the-day mood. For dinner, we chose the deconstructed mahimahi fish taco, which was as beautiful as it was delicious Our side dish, green chile mac and cheese, sounded great but was a little too greasy. Bar 10850 Stonelake Blvd (512-342-2700). Lunch 7 days 11-4 Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. $$-$$$ (W+)
SHORELINE GRILL
Succulent mounds of lobster nestled in the center of a buttery bisque proved a delightful beginning at this upscale restaurant overlooking the banks of Lady Bird Lake. New chef Scott Szekretar has revamped the menu with a lengthy selection of seafood dishes, one of the best being a plump seared halibut filet surrounded by crisply fried potato gnocchi on a bed of wilted Swiss chard and roasted-tomato puree. The turf lover at our table found the tender braised short ribs (atop a fluffy cloud of mashed potatoes) a soulful treat. Bar. 98 San Jacinto, at Cesar Chavez (512-477-3300) Open Mon-Fn 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5 9. Reservations recommended. $$$ -$$$$ (W+)
** UCHI
Innovation is the hallmark of this sushi house, which consistently tops Austin's list of best restaurants. Start with seared Nantucket scallops; augmented by fragrant fennel and kyoho grapes (peeled, no less), the dish is yet another example of Uchi's obsessive attention to detail And that's precisely the quality that makes executive chef Tyson Cole's dishes sublime. Halibut, for instance, can be humdrum, but here it is served over a puddle of golden tangerine sauce sided by hydroponic parsley and grilled edamame This inspired approach applies to pastry chef's Philip Speer's desserts as well His silky coffee-flavored panna cotta is tricked out to resemble a poached egg, with a center dollop of pureed mango that pours out like an egg yolk when pierced; an egg shaped scoop of white chocolate sorbet comes alongside. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S Lamar Blvd (512 916-4808) Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri. & Sat 5-11 Reservations recommended taken until 7. $$- $$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Executive chef Ryan Samson continues to enchant with his smart approach and interesting pairings. As expected, the bar was standing room only, and the understated dining room abuzz. We began with an insalata tricolore of radicchio, Belgian endive, and baby arugula, Not surprisingly, many of the specials were sold out, so we settled on the vitello saltimbocca--veal scallopini layered with thinly sliced Parma prosciutto and finished with a veablemon butter sauce--which was a tad heavy, the prosciutto somewhat overpowering the veal Our companion's margherita pizza with house-made mozzarella (so delicious), fresh tomatoes, and basil proved the star of the night: simple and lovely. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512 441-6100) Dinner Sun & Mon 5-10, Tue-Sat. 5-10:30 Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 8.30 $$-$$$ (W+)
WINK
(Update)
Can it be that Wink is eight years old? It seems like only yesterday that it was the novel up start. Now it's one of those restaurants that come to mind when someone says, "I'm looking for a special place to take ..." (fill in name of high-value guest here). Our last visit to the petite black-and-caramel dining room started with bison tartare (leaner than beef but equally mild), served with crostini for making crisp open-faced mini-sandwiches Somebody in the kitchen (must be chef Mark Paul) knows how to cook duck, because the duck breast, with dabs of subtle arugula pesto, was pink perfection Our party vacillated over dessert but finally went with the Wink Trio: small portions of the peerless lemon meringue pot, the creme brullee, and the moist El Rey chocolate cake. Bar. 1014 N Lamar Blvd (512-482 8868). Dinner Mon Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 580-11 (bar open 5 midnight). Closed Sun. Reservations recommended $$-$$$ (W+)
WOODLAND
Come for a cocktail; stay for dessert. But brace yourself for more than an hour's wait at this casual hipster spot on the south end and west side of SoCo The food is all about comfort with a Texas twist Fried cheese curds crispy Wisconsin cheddar bitelets served with marinara go down quick and easy, leaving room for main courses like a grilled Berkshire pork chop in an apple whiskey glaze with hazelnut-brown butter mashed potatoes and broccoli rapini For dessert, indulge in a slice of homemade pie (the chocolate peanut butter is a fave), Perusing the cocktail menu, we liked the sound of the Miss Eudora (bourbon, vanilla, basil, and ginger). Bar 1716 8. Congress Ave (512 441-6800) Open Mon 5-11, Tue Sat 11-11 Sun 10-3 & 5-11. $-$$ (W+)
ZOOT
Rarely does the new site of a relocated restaurant retain the original's vibe, and that's the case here The space seems twice the size of the cottage on Hearn but lacks the charm think a Southwestern-ish exterior and a nondescript interior with completely bare walls. Happily, though-and more important--the food is as good as ever We started with fabulous seared scallops on semolina gnocchi (pure, rich goodness) before moving on to spring greens with marinated root vegetables and fresh herbs (unfortunately, the truffle lemon vinaigrette weighed it all down) But in the end, we were most wowed by the roasted pork loin with braised red cabbage, peppercorn demi glace, and a side of kohlrabi sparked with quartered grapefruit (it sounds odd but tasted wonderful). Bar 11715 Bee Caves Rd (512 477-6535). Lunch 7 days 11-2:30 Dinner Sun-Wed 6-9, Thur-Sat 6-10. $$-$$$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
HESTER'S CAFE & COFFEE BAR
Hester and Jason Rodriguez have perfected their formula, judging by the daily lines of regulars. High on our list of recommendations are the hearty Swinney Switch salad (black-bean-and-corn salsa over roasted turkey, smoked bacon, red-chile pecans, and avocado on a bed of fresh greens); the bacon-cheddar scone with eggs, applewood-smoked bacon, and rosemary potatoes; and the peppery bean and vegetable soup. 1714 S. Alameda, at Six Points, entrance on Palmero behind Bleu Frog Mercantile (361-885-0558). Open Men-Sat 7-3, Closed Sun. $-$$ (W)
LATITUDE 28[degrees]02'
With the closing of nearby Hemingway's, Ramona and Craig Day stand unchallenged as providers of fine dining in Rockport-Fulton, ocean-side twin cities with a number of good restaurants. We like to start with the crab cakes, served with a sour cream based chipotle sauce The catch of the day is always good; this time it was a filet of mahimahi coated with buttery bread crumbs and garlic and then broiled. And a special fresh...
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