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Article Excerpt
Amarillo
BLUE FRONT CAFE
Tucked in the corner of a parking lot off Route 66 is a downtown diner where most customers are on a first name basis with the staff For early eaters, the French toast hot off the griddle--sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with a side of crisp bacon and a steaming cup of coffee--is a good way to start your day. Stop in around lunchtime and you might be lucky enough to get the enchilada platter or the homemade chicken and rice soup, with tender meat, fresh carrots, and celery, all seasoned to perfection 80i SW 6th Ave (806-372-0659). Open Mon-Fri 6-3, Sat 5-2, Sun 7-2 , Sun 7-2. $ (W+)
575 PIZZERIA
[Update] New name, same great restaurant. The former Basil Doe's is now 575 Pizzeria, a self-proclaimed "hot spot for pints and pies." And it's not just about the pizza Munch on the "brick fired bread" with olive tapenade or the Greek salad, full of olives and artichoke hearts The Quattro is a white pie with mozzarella, Parmesan, feta, and goat cheese As for red pies, we like the Squillace: pepperoni, sausage, roasted red peppers, portobellos, and fresh garlic. Don't leave without having the cherry bread pudding, made with a croissant and topped with amaretto sauce Beer & wine 2803 Civic Circle (805-33I 3627). Open Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-11 Closed Sun & Mon $$ (W+)
GOLDEN LIGHT CAFE
Return to Old Route 66 at this classic cafe, which has been in business at this spot since 1946 Not much has changed, The burger is superb and must be accompanied by fries--slivers of potatoes so fresh, hot, and thin that no order is too large The BLT could win a prize with its crisp lettuce, flavorful tomatoes, and acres of bacon. The cheerful retro experience will prepare you for a stroll down historic Sixth Street Bar. 2908 W. 5th Ave (806-374-9237) Open Mon-Sat 11-10 Closed Sun. $ (W+)
Austin
ASTI
Having been relegated to the back of the long, narrow dining room on the past three or four visits, we were thrilled to be seated front and center--all the better to see the action in the open kitchen. House made mozzarella and roasted peppers (simple goodness), along with mixed greens tossed with bits of Bartlett pear and a shallot dressing, made for a good beginning Our entree followed suit The pan seared scallops with tomato braised pancetta, ceci beans, and basil pesto proved to be a smart combination of flavors and textures. Beer & wine 408 E. 43rd (522-452 1218). Open Mon-Thur 11-10 Fri 11-11, Sat 5--11 Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
EL SOL Y LA LUNA
[Update] Fans of the intrepid Nilda de la Llata are now trekking over to Sixth Street for breakfasts of migas and piping-hot tortillas Then they're showing up again at happy hour for a Paloma Patron cocktail: tequila and pineapple juice. After one or two of those, they're likely to be staying for dinner, sampling an array of interior Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes. We liked the smoky enchiladas en mole but found the shrimp a la diabla sorely lacking in spirit (read: bland). Even so, we got to the bottom of a bowlful of sopaipillas topped with whipped cream and honey With its full range of entice ments, this local favorite is a welcome addition to downtown. Bar 600 E 6th (522-444 7770). Open Tue-Thur 7 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri & Sat 7-2 a.m., Sun 9-4 Closed Mon. $ (W+)
FINN & PORTER
Though best known for its steaks, Finn & Porter the Hilton's recently remodeled upscale restaurant--also offers an extensive sushi menu A plate of complimentary edamame (here served cold) is a pleasant way to start your meal. as is the Chuka salad, a tangle of green seaweed served over ponzu marinated sliced cucumber. Standout sashimi includes the house smoked escolar, so buttery it all but melts on your tongue Overall, we found the rolled sushi a little fussy, though; the Finn Roll was a smorgasbord all by itself of spicy assorted fish, avocado, and tempura flakes on the inside, with thin-sliced tuna and salmon wrapped around the outside, plus a dusting of chives. Given that fresh fish is flown in three times a week, the sushi chef could make us happy simply by observing the adage "Less is more." Bar. Hilton Hotel, 500 E. 4th (512-493 4900) Dinner 7 days 5-11 (bar 2 p.m.-1 am), $$-$$$ (W+)
THE GOOD KNIGHT
Stepping into this dimly lit East Austin dive may seem like an act of faith, but in its few months on the scene, the welcoming, ultrahumble little room has amassed quite a following, serving classic cocktails like the Sazerac and a compact Old World menu. Though the chicken pate proved bland, the delicious home-style chicken potpie came in a rich broth augmented with root vegetables and topped with a crisp puff pastry cap. Flammekueche, an Alsatian spin on pizza, came slathered with a near-jam of caramelized onions studded with bits of bacon and dabs of creme fraiche It was excellent, though heavier on the onions and lighter on the creme than the Alsace version A chocolate pot de creme infused with Earl Grey tea was every bit as smooth and flavorful as it sounds Ban 1300 E. 5th (512-628-1250). Dinner Tue-Sun 5-2 am Closed Mon $$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
[Update] When you're craving a filling meal with exquisite I flavor, Hudson's delivers. Celebrating its twenty-fifth year in the cozy cottage near Lake Travis, the restaurant is offering a supplemental blast-from-the-past menu with items from its early years (smaller portions, lower prices). From this special menu, we ordered a spring greens salad topped with a pecan crusted disk of goat cheese and the wild game enchiladas, which consisted of pheasant, wild boar, and more and were nicely complemented with a nutty, chile-based mole and a decidedly tarter one with tomatillo, cilantro, and white chocolate (yes!). In honor of Hudson's fun new South Congress food trailer, the Mighty Cone (see page 142), we ordered the entree that inspired the idea: hot-and crunchy trout with mango jalapeno aioli. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd d20, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-2661369) Dinner Sun & Mon 5-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10 Reservations recommended $$$-$$$$ (W+)
JEFFREY'S
We feel excited by the breath of fresh air sweeping through this beloved Austin haunt, now under the direction of chef Deegan McClung Yes, we winced to find the oysters on yuca chips off the menu, but we beamed when even crispier oysters emerged from the kitchen on a creamy bacon sauce Smoky grilled artichokes, definitely finger food, signaled a new, less starchy attitude, as did seared skate wing on a pile of clams (though the fish was a little unevenly cooked). Tournedos of beef tenderloin topped with blue cheese will reassure regular customers For dessert, we had great fun dipping batons of fried pineapple in the cherry wasabi sauce that accompanied our "inverted" Coke float (cola flavored sorbet topped with creme anglaise). The staff and the low-key setting are as gracious as ever. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512 477-5984). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30 (bar menu Sun-Fri 5-7 Sat 9-10) Reservations recommended $$$-$$$$ (five courses $93 without wine) (W+)
LA CONDESA
La Condesa--named for the tony district hi Mexico City--has arrived in the Second Street District with all the subtlety of a bottle rocket It's hard to tell whether more attention is being paid to the cutting-edge de sign of Michael Hsu and Joel Mozersky, the cutting-edge cocktails designed by famed mixologist Junior
Austin
Merino, or the cutting edge food of Texas-born, internationally traveled chef Rene Ortiz A fair number of words on the menu will be familiar to Tex Mex-wise Texans--tostadas, taquitos, sopas, and ceviche But others take you down an exciting, interior-of-Mexico path. Even the ceviches depart from the norm, with the likes of kingfish snuggled up to grilled grapefruit in a fantastic cold, sweet tart lime-cilantro broth Huaraches-pliable masa tarts--come with assorted top pings, one example being the earthy, near musty corn fungus known as huitlacoche, which raises the perennial question of how the hell huitlacoche ever got its gourmet reputation. Among the platos fuertes, or entrees, is an excellent duck in a seductive Oaxacan style black mole. There's much to explore. Bar 400-A W. 2nd (512-499-0300). Open Mon-Fri 11-3 & 5-11, Sat & Sun 5-11. Brunch Sat & Sun 11-2. Dinner reservations recommended $$-$$$ (W+)
LA TRAVIATA
With all the new restaurants in town, we were glad to find that Austinites still Jove this quaint, stone walled downtown spot. Tables were booked well past nine o'clock on a Saturday night, and the place was abuzz with the sound of happy diners Perched on tall chairs at the bar, we found chef-owner Marion Gillcrist's classic Italian comfort food as good as ever. A bright salad of arugula, citrus, and Gorgonzola piqued our appetite for decadent lamb meatballs and rigatoni (in a creamy tomato sauce) and a plate of crisp-on-the-outside, tender-on-the inside chicken Parmesan with melty fontina cheese Bar 314 Congress Ave (512 479-8131). Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2 Dinner Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 Closed Sun $$ (W+)
THE MIGHTY CONE
[NEW] You no longer have to wait a year and then queue up at the annual Austin City Limits Music Festival to score a Hudson's on the Bend crunchy chicken cone. Now you can get the warm chicken tenders--coated with crushed almonds, corn flakes, sesame seeds, and chile flakes, fried, and served in a tortilla with mango-jalapeno coleslaw--six days a week at this kitschy white trailer on South Congress. Honestly, these cones are more addictive than crack, especially if you've been out in the sun drinking cold beer. The avocado and shrimp versions are almost as tasty as the chicken (the first two are deals at $5.45, the latter will set you back an equally economical $6.45) Order any of these with a shake and a side of ultracrispy chile-dusted fries and you'll be as high as a kite. 1603 S. Congress Ave, Lot #1 (512-383-9609), Open Sun & Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-11, Closed Mon $
RUBY'S BBQ
Ruby's BBQ, a campus area institution that's been smokin' for the past twenty years, is a favorite of impecunious students and 'cue connoisseurs alike. The laidback Austin haunt serves up all-natural (i.e., hormone-free), thinly sliced beef that is consistently good. And at $3.45, the spicy chopped-brisket sandwich is a steal. Have it the Central Texas way (sans sauce) or with a ladle of Ruby's very vinegary signature sauce. The abundant sides, like crunchy vinaigrette coleslaw and flavorful mustard potato salad, are remarkably tasty and much more varied than at the usual barbecue joint. Also, try to save room for the cobbler a la mode, and don't even think of not sharing or there is a very good chance that spoons will spar Beer & wine. 512 W. 29th (512-477-1651) Open 7 days 11-midnight. $-$$ (W)
SHORELINE GRILL
Succulent mounds of lobster nestled in the center of a buttery bisque proved a delightful beginning at this upscale restaurant overlooking the banks of Lady Bird Lake New chef Scott Szekretar has revamped the menu with a lengthy selection of seafood dishes, one of the best being a plump seared halibut filet surrounded by crisply fried potato gnocchi on a bed of wilted Swiss chard and roasted-tomato purse The turf lover at our table found the tender braised short ribs (atop a fluffy cloud of mashed potatoes) a soulful treat Ban 98 San Jacinto, at Cesar Chavez (512-477-3300) Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9 Reservations recommended $$$-$$$$ (W+) ** UCHI
[Update] Innovation is the hallmark of this sushi house, which consistently tops Austin's list of best restaurants. Start with seared Nantucket scallops; augmented by fragrant fennel and kyoho grapes (peeled, no less), the dish is yet another example of Uchi'a obsessive attention to detail. And that's precisely the quality that makes executive chef Tyson CoWs dishes sublime Halibut, for instance, can be humdrum, but here it is served over a puddle of golden tangerine sauce sided by hydroponic parsley and grilled edamame, This inspired approach applies to pastry chefs Philip Speer's desserts as well His silky coffee-flavored panna cotta is tricked out to resemble a poached egg, with a center dollop of pursed mango that pours out like an egg yolk when pierced; an egg-shaped scoop of white chocolate sorbet comes alongside. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations recommended, taken until 7. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
Chef-owner Alan Lazarus continues to enchant with his smart approach and interesting pairings. As expected, the bar was standing room only, and the understated dining room abuzz. We began with an insalata tricolore of radicchio, Belgian endive, and baby arugula Not surprisingly, many of the specials were sold out, so we settled on the vitello saltimbocca--veal scallopini layered with thinly sliced Parma prosciutto and finished with a veal-lemon butter sauce which was a tad heavy, the prosciutto somewhat overpowering the veal. Our companion's margherita pizza with house-made mozzarella (so delicious), fresh tomatoes, and basil proved the star of the night: simple and lovely. Bar 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-4416100). Dinner Sun & Mon 5-10, Tue-Sat 5-10:30 Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 6:30 $$-$$$ (W+)
WOODLAND
Come for a cocktail; stay for dessert. But brace your self for more than an hour's wait at this casual hipster spot on the south end and west side of SoCo. The food is all about comfort with a Texas twist. Fried cheese curds--crispy Wisconsin cheddar bitelets served with marinara--go down quick and easy, leaving room for main courses like a grilled Berkshire pork chop in an apple whiskey glaze with hazelnut-brown-butter mashed potatoes and broccoli rapini. For dessert, indulge in a slice of homemade pie (the chocolate peanut butter is a rave). Perusing the cocktail menu, we liked the sound of the Miss Eudora (bourbon, vanilla, basil, and ginger). Bar. 1716 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6800). Open Mon 5-11, Tue Sat 11-11, Sun 11 & 5-11. $-$$ (W+)
ZOOT
[Update] Rarely does the new site of a relocated restaurant retain the original's vibe and that's the case here. The space seems twice the size of the cottage on Hearn but lacks the charm think a Southwestern-ish exterior and a nondescript interior with completely bare walls. Happily, though and more important--the food is as good as ever. We started with fabulous seared scallops on semolina gnocchi (pure, rich goodness) before moving on to spring greens with marinated root vegetables and fresh herbs (unfortunately, the truffle-lemon vinaigrette weighed it all down). But in the end, we were most wowed by the roasted pork loin with braised red cabbage, peppercorn demi-glace, and a side of kohlrabi sparked with quartered grapefruit (it sounds odd but tasted wonderful) Bar. 11715 Bee Caves Rd (512-477 6535) Lunch 7 days 11-2:30. Dinner Sun-Wed 6-9, Thur-Sat 6-10 $$-$$$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
HESTER'S CAFE & COFFEE BAR
Hester and Jason Rodriguez have perfected their formula, judging by the daily lines of regulars High on our list of recommendations are the hearty Swinney Switch salad (black-bean-and corn salsa over roasted turkey, smoked bacon, red chile pecans, and avocado on a bed of fresh greens); the bacon-cheddar scone with eggs, applewood-smoked bacon, and rosemary potatoes; and the peppery bean and vegetable soup 1714 S Alameda, at Six Points, entrance on Palmero behind Bleu Frog Mercantile (361 885-0558) Open Mon-Sat 7-3. Closed Sun $-$$ (W)
LATITUDE 28[degrees]02'
[Update] With the closing of nearby Hemingway's, Ramona and Craig Day stand unchallenged as providers of fine dining in Rockport Fulton, ocean side twin cities with a number of good restaurants. We like to start with the crab cakes, served with a sour cream based chipotle sauce. The catch of the day is always good; this time it was a filet of mahimahi coated with buttery bread crumbs and garlic and then broiled And a special fresh grouper filet lightly sauteed with a shallot buerre blanc bordered on the sensational Creamy garlic mashed potatoes, green beans sauteed in garlic and oil, and a crisp green salad came along for the ride. Bar. 105 N. Austin, Rockport (361-727-9009) Dinner Tue-Sun 5-10 Closed Mon, $$-$$$ (W+)
REPUBLIC OF TEXAS BAR & GRILL
Chef Francisco Jimenez and his team of excellent servers deliver food worthy of this showplace setting, which is quite possibly the most elegant dining room in South Texas. Although the menu displays a serious commitment to red meat and game, we were delighted with the seafood, starting with the luxe Iberia Boisa de Mar: puff pastry purses filled with lobster, scallops, crab, and Manchego cheese and served with a champagne aioli What followed kept pace: peppercorn-crusted ahi tuna in a creamy green curry and...
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