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THE GREAT SEAGULL; They sell for [pounds sterling]6 each in ritzy restaurants. But where DO they get gulls' eggs from? Our writer braved quicksand and angry birds to find out (and no ... it wasn't poaching).

Article Excerpt
Byline: by Jane Fryer

THE EAR-PIERCING shrieks and screeches hit you first. Then the smell of soggy mud and salty seaweed. Finally, the sight of hundreds of black-headed gulls high above in the clear blue sky, swirling, swooping and squawking in anger that their sodden green habitat has been invaded by a man called Chris in long rubber gaiters.

It's not surprising they're fed up. It's barely 7.30am and Chris's bright blue bucket already holds goodness knows how many of their beautiful greeny-brown speckled eggs.

Which, by lunchtime, will be washed, boiled, peeled and served with a flourish and a sprinkling of celery salt in some of London's most august restaurants and gentlemen's clubs.

And to make matters worse, Chris, 66, will be back for another load tomorrow. And the day after. And the day after that. In fact, he'll be there every day until the May 15, when the 'egging' season comes to an end and finally the gulls will be left alone to lay their remaining eggs in peace -- with only the foxes and high tides and poachers to worry about.

'I've been collecting gulls' eggs here for 47 years and I can't see myself stopping soon,' Chris shouts over the roar of the outboard motor on his filthy wooden boat. 'Sometimes my sons help me, but they're doing Lymington, so today it's just me and my bucket. So far I've collected about 12 dozen, but I've been at it since five.'

Before anyone starts jumping up and down, writing furious letters or calling the RSPB, I should perhaps point out that, while the Wildlife And Countryside Act of 1981 outlawed taking eggs from wild birds in general, this...