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Article Excerpt
Amarillo
BLUE FRONT CAFE
(Update)
Tucked in the corner of a parking lot off Route 66 is a downtown diner where most customers are on a first-name basis with the staff.
For early eaters, the French toast hot off the griddle-sprinkled with powdered sugar and served with a side of crisp bacon and a steaming cup of coffee--is a good way to start your day. Stop in around lunchtime and you might be lucky enough to get the enchilada platter or the homemade chicken and rice soup, with tender meat, fresh carrots, and celery, all seasoned to perfection. 801 SW 6th Ave (806-372-0659). Open Mon-Fri 6-3, Sat 6-2, Sun 7-2. $ (W+)
GOLDEN LIGHT CAFE
Return to Old Route 66 at this classic cafe, which has been in business at this spot since 1946. Not much has changed. The burger is superb and must be accompanied by fries--slivers of potatoes so fresh, hot, and thin that no order is too large. The BLT could win a prize with its crisp lettuce, flavorful tomatoes, and acres of bacon. The cheerful retro experience will prepare you for a stroll down historic Sixth Street. Bar. 2908 W. 6th (806-374-9237). Open Mon-Sat 11-10 Closed Sun. $ (W+)
Austin
ASTI
(Update)
Having been relegated to the back of the long, narrow dining room on the past three or four visits, we were thrilled to be seated front and center--all the better to see the action in the open kitchen. House-made mozzarella and roasted peppers (simple goodness), along with mixed greens tossed with bits of Bartlett pear and a shallot dressing, made for a good beginning. Our entree followed suit The pan-seared scallops with tomato-braised pancetta, ceci beans, and basil pesto proved to be a smart combination of flavors and textures. Beer & wine. 408 E. 43rd (512-451-1218). Open Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11. Closed Sun. $$-$$$ (W+)
BLANTON CAFE
While its menu may not be as extensive nor its set ting as grand as those of the cafe at the Kimbell, in Fort Worth--the benchmark by which all museum cafes should be measured--this casual new cafeteria-style dining venue across from UT's Blanton Museum of Art is well on its way. Choose from a varied light menu designed by UT chef Josh Watkins (formerly of the Driskill Hotel), including yummy flatbread pizzas, crisp build-your-own salads, and panini (we raved over the Italian, with prosciutto, smoked ham, salami, and provolone). Visit the adjacent gift shop on your way out. Beer & wine. 200 Martin Luther King Blvd (512-232-9209). Open Tue-Fri 9-5, Sat 11-5, Sun 1-5. Also open first Fri (during B Scene) & third Thur till 9 Closed Mon. $$ (W+)
COVER 3
We're big fans of this stylish new sports bar. Skeptical about eating in such a place? We were too, but trust us. The open room feels like a modern lounge, with exposed brick walls adorned with flat-screen TVs. The rabies were abuzz as women sipped wine and chatted and guys reacted to plays and scores. On this visit, we passed on our previous lave (beef tenderloin sliders) and opted for a new dish, the chilled shrimp and crab tower; the avocado proved to be the perfect backdrop to the somewhat spicy sauces. We split the rest: a Cover 3 salad (mixed greens tossed with candied walnuts, sliced Fuji apples, crumbled goat cheese, and raspberry-Dijon viniagrette) and a tender 22-ounce bone-in ribeye--the latter a tad pricey, but a winner nonetheless. Bar. 2700 W. Anderson Ln (512-374-1121). Open Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 11-10. $$-$$$ (W+)
FINN & PORTER
(Update)
Though best known for its steaks, Finn & Porter--the Hilton's recently remodeled upscale restaurant--also offers a full range of sushi. A plate of complimentary edamame (here served cold) is a pleasant way to start your meal, as is the Chuka salad, a tangle of green seaweed served over ponzu-marinated sliced cucumber. Standout sashimi includes the house-smoked escolar, so buttery it all but melts on your tongue Overall, we found the rolled sushi a little fussy, though; the Finn Roll was a smorgasbord all by itself of spicy assorted fish, avocado, and tempura flakes on the inside, with thin-sliced tuna and salmon wrapped around the outside, plus a dusting of chives. Given that fresh fish is flown in three times a week, the sushi chef could make us happy simply by observing the adage "Less is more." Bar. Hilton Hotel, 500 E. 4th (512-493-4900), Dinner 7 days 5-11 (bar 2 p.m.-1 am.). $$-$$$ (W+)
THE GOOD KNIGHT
Stepping into this dimly lit East Austin dive may seem like an act of faith, but in its few months on the scene, the welcoming, ultrahumble little room has amassed quite a following, serving classic cocktails like the Sazerac and a compact Old World menu. Though the chicken pate proved bland, the delicious home-style chicken potpie came in a rich broth augmented with root vegetables and topped with a crisp puff pastry cap. Flammekueche, an Alsatian spin on pizza, came slathered with a near-jam of caramelized onions studded with bits of bacon and dabs of creme fraiche. It was excellent, though heavier on the onions and lighter on the creme than the Alsace version. A chocolate pot de creme infused with Earl Grey tea was every bit as smooth and flavorful as it sounds. Bar. 1300 E. 6th (512-628-1250). Dinner Tue-Sun 5-2 a.m. Closed Mon. $$ (W+)
* HUDSON'S ON THE BEND
Even after all these years, we're still crazy about the food at Jeff Blank's countryside destination. Two plump scallops wrapped in venison prosciutto came smokin' on a cedar plank; another appetizer--skewered morsels of smoked duck breast, fig, and jalapeno--felt like kisses from chef Jeff; the accompanying red chile dipping sauce made them even sweeter. Rosy slices of elk back strap (also smoked; they're big on that here) proved addictively salty, a problem that was countered by the souffle-like corn pudding on the plate The same fate befell the chicken-fried antelope, necessitating several refills of water. Dazzling service and dozens of fresh apples dangling from the ceilings enhanced the fairy tale cottage setting. Bar. 3509 Ranch Rd 620, 1.5 miles southwest of Mansfield Dam (512-266-1369). Dinner Sun & Mon 6-9, Tue-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10 Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
JEFFREY'S
(Update)
We've removed our star rating, as brand-new chef Deegan McClung has yet to prove his mettle. But we feel excited by the breath of fresh air sweeping through this beloved Austin haunt. Yes, we winced to find the oysters on yuca chips off the menu, but we beamed when even crispier oysters emerged from the kitchen on a creamy bacon sauce. Smoky grilled artichokes, definitely finger food, signaled a new, less-starchy attitude, as did seared skate wing on a pile of clams (though the fish was a little unevenly cooked). Tournedos of beef tenderloin topped with blue cheese will reassure regular customers. For dessert, we had great fun dipping batons of fried pineapple in the cherry wasabi sauce that accompanied our "inverted" Coke float (cola-flavored sorbet topped with crem anglaise). The staff and the low-key setting are as gracious as ever. Bar. 1204 West Lynn (512-477-5584). Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30, Sun 6-9:30 (bar menu Sun-Fri 5-7, Sat 9-10). Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (five courses $93 without wine) (W+)
Austin
LA CONDESA
(New)
La Condesa--named for the tony district in Mexico City--has arrived in the Second Street District with all the subtlety of a bottle rocket. It's hard to tell whether more attention is being paid to the cutting-edge design of Michael Hsu and Joel Mozersky, the cutting-edge cocktails designed by famed mixologist Junior Merino, or the cutting-edge food of Texas-born, internationally traveled chef Rene Ortiz. A fair number of words on the menu will be familiar to Tex-Mex-wise Texans--tostadas, taquitos, sopas, and ceviche. But others take you down an exciting, interior-of-Mexico path. Even the ceviches depart from the norm, with the likes of kingfish snuggled up to grilled grapefruit in a fantastic cold, sweet-tart lime-cilantro broth. Huaraches--pliable masa tarts--come with assorted toppings, one example being the earthy, near-musty com fungus known as huitlacoche, which raises the perennial question of how the hell huitlacoche ever got its gourmet reputation. Among the platos fuertes, of entrees, is an excellent duck in a seductive Oaxacan-style black mole. There's much to explore. Bar. 400-A W. 2nd (512-499-0300). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-3. Dinner Sun-Wed 5-10:30, Thur-Sat 5-11. Brunch Sat & Sun 11-2. Dinner reservations recommended. $$-$$$ (W+) (See also Pat's Pick, page 147.)
LA TRAVIATA
With all the new restaurants in town, we were glad to find that Austinites still love this quaint, stone walled downtown spot. Tables were booked well past nine o'clock on a Saturday night, and the place was abuzz with the sound of happy diners. Perched on tall chairs at the bar, we found chef-owner Marion Gillcrist's classic Italian comfort food as good as ever. A bright salad of arugula, citrus, and Gorgonzola piqued our appetite for decadent lamb meatballs and rigatoni (in a creamy tomato sauce) and a plate of crisp on-the outside, tender-on-the-inside chicken Parmesan with melty fontina cheese. Bar. 314 Congress Ave (512-479-8131). Lunch Mon-Fri 1130-2. Dinner Mon Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-10:30 Closed Sun. $$ (W+)
RUBY'S BBQ
Ruby's BBQ, a campus-area institution that's been smokin' for the past twenty years, is a favorite of impecunious students and 'cue connoisseurs alike. The laidback Austin haunt serves up all-natural (i.e., hormone-free), thinly sliced beef that is consistently good. And at $3.45, the spicy chopped brisket sandwich is a steal. Have it the Central Texas way (sans sauce) or with a ladle of Ruby's very vinegary signature sauce. The abundant sides, like crunchy vinaigrette coleslaw and flavorful mustard potato salad, are remarkably tasty and much more varied than at the usual barbecue joint. Also, try to save room for the cobbler a la mode, and don't even think of not sharing or there is a very good chance that spoons will spar Beer & wine. 512 W. 29th (512-477-1651) Open 7 days 11-midnight. $-$$ (W+)
SHORELINE GRILL
(Update)
Succulent mounds of lobster nestled in the center of a buttery bisque proved a delightful beginning at this upscale restaurant overlooking the banks of Lady Bird Lake. New chef Scott Szekretar has revamped the menu with a lengthy selection of seafood dishes, one of the best being a plump seared halibut filet surrounded by crisply fried potato gnocchi on a bed of wilted Swiss chard and roasted-tomato puree. The turf lover at our table found the tender braised short ribs (atop a fluffy cloud of mashed potatoes) a soulful treat. Bar. 98 San Jacinto, at Cesar Chavez (512-477 3300) Open Mon-Fri 11-10, Sat 5-10, Sun 5-9. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$ (W+)
** UCHI
Newcomers to this bastion of cutting-edge sushi should check their expectations for spicy tuna rolls at the door. Why waste the space when you can expand your palate with the subtly layered flavors of the toro nuta--bluefin tuna with dried cranberry and Marcona almonds--or a recent mind-blowing special of Hawaiian wahoo served with pickled rhubarb shavings, a piquant poblano sauce, and basil leaves. Though not as visually dynamic as other menu items, diver scallops with smoked greens and grilled corn had excellent flavor and texture. (Tell us again: What's a California roll?) The wild crimson floral wallpaper in the main dining room sets off the sedate, taupe-colored accents of the sushi bar area. Beer, wine, & sake. 801 S. Lamar Blvd (512-916-4808). Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 5-11. Reservations recommended, taken until 7. $$-$$$ (W+)
* VESPAIO
(Update)
Chef-owner Alan Lazarus continues to enchant with his smart approach and interesting pairings. As expected, the bar was standing-room only, and the understated dining room abuzz. We began with an insalata tricolore of radicchio, Belgian endive, and baby arugula. Not surprisingly, many of the specials were sold out, so we settled on the vitello saltimbocca--veal scallopini layered with thinly sliced Parma prosciutto and finished with a veal-lemon butter sauce--which was a tad heavy, the prosciutto somewhat overpowering the veal. Our companion's margherita pizza with house-made mozzarella (so delicious), fresh tomatoes, and basil proved the star of the night: simple and lovely. Bar. 1610 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6100). Dinner Sun & Mon 5-10, Tue-Sat 5-10:30. Reservations taken Mon-Thur & Sun until 6:30. $$-$$$ (W+)
WOODLAND
(Update)
Come for a cocktail; stay for dessert. But brace yourself for more than an hour's wait at this casual hipster spot on the south end and west side of SoCo. The food is all about comfort with a Texas twist. Fried cheese curds--crispy Wisconsin cheddar bitelets served with marinara--go down quick and easy, leaving room for main courses like a grilled Berkshire pork chop in an apple-whiskey glaze with hazelnut brown-butter mashed potatoes and broccoli rapini. For dessert, indulge in a slice of homemade pie (the chocolate-peanut butter is a lave). Perusing the cocktail menu, we liked the sound of the Miss Eudora (bourbon, vanilla, basil, and ginger). Bar. 1716 S. Congress Ave (512-441-6800) Open Tue-Sat 11-11, Sun 10-3 & 5-11. Closed Mon. $-$$ (W+)
YU SUSHI IZAGAYA
With all the new condos downtown, it's not so surprising to find a neighborhood izakaya (yes, with a k; it's a Japanese drinking establishment that also serves food). Just don't think you can wear sweats to this one. A sleek bar lit in blue with black wood banquettes demands a little attention to the wardrobe. A late-night visit found scenesters perusing the grilled robata menu while listening to the thumping of techno music. A bowl of kimchi ramen, in a light broth tasting faintly of the sea, came topped with fried pork, the standard corn kernels, and a tea-dyed hard-boiled egg. Tempura-topped udon became instantly clogged with batter, but a cup of miso soup was dean flavored and graced by tiny enoki mushrooms. A mundane sushi combo was not worth leaving the house for, but we loved the Fuji 151, a flaming salmon sushi dish. Bar. 206 Colorado (512-708-8887). Lunch Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner Sun & Mon 5-10, Tue & Wed 5-11, Thur-Sat 5-midnight. $$-$$$ (W+)
Corpus Christi
517
Teri and Zee Zepeda, proprietors of the popular Nuevo Cafe, have chosen for their encore this spare but attractive tearoom cum sandwich shop, where the approach to the standard lunchtime menu is refreshingly novel. Take the 517 BLT: The bread is fresh-baked brioche, the tomatoes green and fried, and the bacon cured in sweet apple cider. We like to start with a cup of the outstanding roasted-poblano soup, a welcome carryover from the menu at Nuevo. Finding 517 is an adventure, but it's worth the effort; it's hidden upstairs and behind Sister Sue's boutique and can be entered v]a stairs or elevator in the shop of by its own rustic stairway from the rear parking lot. 517 Everhart Rd (361-991-7828). Lunch Tue-Sat 11-3 Closed Sun & Mon. $ (W+)
HESTER'S CAFE & COFFEE BAR
(Update)
Hester and Jason Rodriguez have perfected their formula, judging by the daily lines of regulars. High on our list of recommendations are the hearty Swinney Switch salad (black-bean-and-corn salsa over roasted turkey, smoked bacon, red-chile pecans, and avocado on a bed of fresh greens); the bacon-cheddar scone with eggs, applewood-smoked bacon, and rosemary potatoes; and the peppery bean and vegetable soup 1710 S. Alameda, at Six Points, entrance on Palmero behind Bleu Frog Mercantile) (361-885-0558) Open Mon-Sat 7-3. Closed Sun. $-$$
REPUBLIC OF TEXAS BAR & GRILL
Chef Francisco Jimenez and his team of excellent servers deliver food worthy of this showplace setting, which is quite possibly the most elegant dining room in South Texas. Although the menu displays a serious commitment to red meat and game, we were delighted with the seafood, starting with the luxe Iberia Bolsa de Mar: puff pastry purses filled with lobster, scallops, crab, and manchego cheese and served with a champagne aioli. What followed kept pace: peppercorn-crusted ahi tuna in a creamy green curry and pan-seared filets of local flounder with a mildly picante jalapeno butter sauce. Bar. Omni...
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